Jump to content
SAU Community

What Boost Control Are You Using?

lilcrash

By lilcrash,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Ok so were are down to 3 choices. Greddy profec spec 2, hks evc and eboost street.

The greddy looks to be the most popular unit. Anyone running over 20psi?

neverph34r.gif

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Ok so were are down to 3 choices. Greddy profec spec 2, hks evc and eboost street.

The greddy looks to be the most popular unit. Anyone running over 20psi?

My brother was running one of the HKS ebc's, but an older model one, it was a little bit involved to set up, had to do a handful of runs so the unit had a baseline of the wastegate to go off, then you had to do more runs to set your desired boost level.

I'm running 22psi, but not on a greddy. I would have picked up a profec b spec 2 but they were about $700 when I was looking. What are they going for at the moment?

RSVFOURUK Collaborator

RSVFOURUK

Posted
Posted

Another profec B vote

It may not be the easiest to set up but if done properly you only have to do it once.

IMHO you dont need 4 or 5 boost control settings on a road car - for me 2 is enough

Mine has coped with 1.5 bar for over 2 years without any issues ( OK i dont drive it every day)

Apart from the fact that a profec b is a good unit may I syuggest a couple of other reasons for using one

You can get a remote wireless switch to swop the boost settings. Fits on the steering wheel so you dont have to drive on high boost all the time just in case you want to use it .

Get the urge press the button its on high boost instantly - My favourite gadget by far

Oh and it happens to fits exactly in the switches hole to the left of the steering wheel

08062007472-1-1-1-1-1.jpg

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Ive got a hks evc 6 its easy to use 1 quick turn of the knob between A & B setting which for me at the moment is only 9 and 12 psi :down:

but will be bout 18psi next week!:laugh: but holds the pressure stable and its got a tps sensor rev counter and peak hold pressure and the likes had it set up by CRD so cant tell you how easy the set up is but ive flicked through the settings and i reckon it would be a snack for anyone who has played with an EBC before :thumbsup:

RSVFOURUK Collaborator

RSVFOURUK

Posted
Posted

It is running twin 2860-5s probably the favorite set up in the uk for an rb26

its set at 1.3 bar on low and 1.56 on high with 99 fuel which is about the norm over here ; there is quite a few running a higher boost than me.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well it looks like I'm going to be running the turbosmart boost t, no one around here stocks boost controls at reasonable prices and it goes on on Friday to attempt a tune again.

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Well it looks like I'm going to be running the turbosmart boost t, no one around here stocks boost controls at reasonable prices and it goes on on Friday to attempt a tune again.

I'd avoid the Turbo-smart boost tees as they are prone to spiking. Turbo-tech if your going for a tee style one.

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

I used a turbosmart T for several years and never had any issues.

I had issues with a Turbotech BUT we were pushing much higher boost than the actuator was rated.

I think the bottom line is that as long as you are near the actuators rating most boost controllers are fine.

I prefer the Turbotech design (it is better) but if I already had a turbosmart T I would just use that.

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

I used a turbosmart T for several years and never had any issues.

I had issues with a Turbotech BUT we were pushing much higher boost than the actuator was rated.

I think the bottom line is that as long as you are near the actuators rating most boost controllers are fine.

I prefer the Turbotech design (it is better) but if I already had a turbosmart T I would just use that.

+1

Much better way of wording it.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Ouch.

I don't think the turbo builder is responsible for your low figure, what went wrong with the tune for you to stop at 14psi?

I have used both the turbosmart and turbotech regs, the turbotech has a larger bleed hole which can make it hard to control high boost, as Wolverine found.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I will try to upload the dyne sheet. Also has anyone else noticed the info missing from the bottoms of staos dyno results. Without all the extra info they look rather false.

Just a note I wouldnt be this pissed off it atleast made the same hp as the stock turbo. It fell a few hp short of the stock turbo. I know different conditions may be at fault but yeah for $100 more I could have had a better turbo without all the extra problems of installing a chinese/eBay turbo.

Edited by lilcrash
wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think you need to take a deep breath and learn something about car modification. It costs money and takes time to iron out the wrinkles.

There are numerous reasons for the result from tuning, exhaust restriction, intake restriction, boost control, dyno variance and more. Mouthing off about a product isn't helping you at all.

If you work through each of the issues systematically you will achieve the results that the turbo is actually capable of achieving.

With some humility post up ALL the details in a non-emotional way and you will get a lot of help in the forced induction section.

The dyno sheets with AFR's and boost will help diagnose some possible issues straight away.

Too late I see....

Edited by wolverine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...