Jump to content
SAU Community

Electronic Ignition Spark Problem

coupe72001

By coupe72001,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Here's a bit of a weird one. I have a Datsun 260C, and just did the handy electronic ignition upgrade using an r30 coil and electronic distributor.

The weirdest thing is happening. The spark leads out from under the coil lead, and arcs to the positive terminal of the coil. Some spark makes it to the plugs, so the car runs... just.

I have tried 3 different coil leads, two of which are new, but the problem remains to some degree. Anyone know what's going on here?

Cheerio, Drew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377739-electronic-ignition-spark-problem/
Share on other sites
hcg210 Collaborator

hcg210

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Here's a bit of a weird one. I have a Datsun 260C, and just did the handy electronic ignition upgrade using an r30 coil and electronic distributor.

The weirdest thing is happening. The spark leads out from under the coil lead, and arcs to the positive terminal of the coil. Some spark makes it to the plugs, so the car runs... just.

I have tried 3 different coil leads, two of which are new, but the problem remains to some degree. Anyone know what's going on here?

Cheerio, Drew

Hi Drew,

Check the condtion of your leads, try another set to see if it still does it.

Mario

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Possibly a failing/cracked coil - is there any oil or staining present around it?

NIssanman would only know about buggered R30 ignitions because I own(ed) all the R30's in the family...

rofl.gif

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi, the coil looks good, although crack spotting is hard with a black coil, but I've ordered another one off fleabay to eliminate this possibility anyway. We'll see how we go if it ever turns up!

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well this sucks. Have tried two new aftermarket coils (generic 12V and GT-40). Both send spark down the ignition lead, but spark does not make it to the spark plugs, ergo the car turns over, but doesn't fire.

When I go back to the second-hand factory coil the car gets spark and runs, but runs like crap due to half the spark arcing to the coil terminals.

I can conclude from this that aftermarket coils cause the leads to fail (jokes).

The wiring is correct, the leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor button are new. I'm flummoxed.

Drew

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well this sucks. Have tried two new aftermarket coils (generic 12V and GT-40). Both send spark down the ignition lead, but spark does not make it to the spark plugs, ergo the car turns over, but doesn't fire.

When I go back to the second-hand factory coil the car gets spark and runs, but runs like crap due to half the spark arcing to the coil terminals.

I can conclude from this that aftermarket coils cause the leads to fail (jokes).

The wiring is correct, the leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor button are new. I'm flummoxed.

Drew

You said this is on a 260C ?, is it a 12 volt, or 7.5 volt system ( coil ) ?

the original system on my 240K worked like this, 12 volts on crank, 7.5ish on running ( one wire was built with resistance in it), to get around this , for me , at the ignition switch, there was 2 wires running back to the coil, 12v for start, 7.5ish for run, so I join them together, so 12v crank and run, then I connect my electronic ignition distributor to this, I ran a wire from the + on the coil (12v) to the module on the dissy)

it's easy

Nigel

Edited by noddle
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Very awesome theory. I didn't know about the 7.5V wire. At any rate, new and old coils alike all say 12V.

To eliminate wiring as an issue, I've hot-wired the car with 15amp wires as follows:

1. Positive terminal on battery to positive terminal on coil.

2. B (battery) from the ignition module to positive on the coil.

3. C (coil) on the ignition module to negative on the coil.

4. The ballast resistor has been deleted.

The results are the same. Arcing with the factory coil. Inability to start with new aftermarket coil. Bummer.

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I gave up and went to an auto electrician. The distributor was running the incorrect rotor button. I blame Autobarn. Interestingly, the standard Datsun coil was`the only one powerful enough to throw the spark the extra (excessive) distance between rotor button and distributor cap. The sparkys were stunned the car ran at all.

Thanks to all who offered theories. D

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just for the record, there are two types of dizzy for R30. One for Auto, one for manual.

I dont know what the difference is but it is listed in the workshop manual and I know a manual wont start with an auto dizzy.

Edited by 66yostagea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Rezz
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Rezz · Posted

      Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Ozdavroz
      Starting again

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • GTSBoy
      Starting again

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...