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Electronic Ignition Spark Problem

coupe72001

By coupe72001,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

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coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Here's a bit of a weird one. I have a Datsun 260C, and just did the handy electronic ignition upgrade using an r30 coil and electronic distributor.

The weirdest thing is happening. The spark leads out from under the coil lead, and arcs to the positive terminal of the coil. Some spark makes it to the plugs, so the car runs... just.

I have tried 3 different coil leads, two of which are new, but the problem remains to some degree. Anyone know what's going on here?

Cheerio, Drew

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hcg210 Collaborator

hcg210

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Here's a bit of a weird one. I have a Datsun 260C, and just did the handy electronic ignition upgrade using an r30 coil and electronic distributor.

The weirdest thing is happening. The spark leads out from under the coil lead, and arcs to the positive terminal of the coil. Some spark makes it to the plugs, so the car runs... just.

I have tried 3 different coil leads, two of which are new, but the problem remains to some degree. Anyone know what's going on here?

Cheerio, Drew

Hi Drew,

Check the condtion of your leads, try another set to see if it still does it.

Mario

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Possibly a failing/cracked coil - is there any oil or staining present around it?

NIssanman would only know about buggered R30 ignitions because I own(ed) all the R30's in the family...

rofl.gif

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi, the coil looks good, although crack spotting is hard with a black coil, but I've ordered another one off fleabay to eliminate this possibility anyway. We'll see how we go if it ever turns up!

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well this sucks. Have tried two new aftermarket coils (generic 12V and GT-40). Both send spark down the ignition lead, but spark does not make it to the spark plugs, ergo the car turns over, but doesn't fire.

When I go back to the second-hand factory coil the car gets spark and runs, but runs like crap due to half the spark arcing to the coil terminals.

I can conclude from this that aftermarket coils cause the leads to fail (jokes).

The wiring is correct, the leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor button are new. I'm flummoxed.

Drew

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well this sucks. Have tried two new aftermarket coils (generic 12V and GT-40). Both send spark down the ignition lead, but spark does not make it to the spark plugs, ergo the car turns over, but doesn't fire.

When I go back to the second-hand factory coil the car gets spark and runs, but runs like crap due to half the spark arcing to the coil terminals.

I can conclude from this that aftermarket coils cause the leads to fail (jokes).

The wiring is correct, the leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor button are new. I'm flummoxed.

Drew

You said this is on a 260C ?, is it a 12 volt, or 7.5 volt system ( coil ) ?

the original system on my 240K worked like this, 12 volts on crank, 7.5ish on running ( one wire was built with resistance in it), to get around this , for me , at the ignition switch, there was 2 wires running back to the coil, 12v for start, 7.5ish for run, so I join them together, so 12v crank and run, then I connect my electronic ignition distributor to this, I ran a wire from the + on the coil (12v) to the module on the dissy)

it's easy

Nigel

Edited by noddle
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Very awesome theory. I didn't know about the 7.5V wire. At any rate, new and old coils alike all say 12V.

To eliminate wiring as an issue, I've hot-wired the car with 15amp wires as follows:

1. Positive terminal on battery to positive terminal on coil.

2. B (battery) from the ignition module to positive on the coil.

3. C (coil) on the ignition module to negative on the coil.

4. The ballast resistor has been deleted.

The results are the same. Arcing with the factory coil. Inability to start with new aftermarket coil. Bummer.

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I gave up and went to an auto electrician. The distributor was running the incorrect rotor button. I blame Autobarn. Interestingly, the standard Datsun coil was`the only one powerful enough to throw the spark the extra (excessive) distance between rotor button and distributor cap. The sparkys were stunned the car ran at all.

Thanks to all who offered theories. D

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just for the record, there are two types of dizzy for R30. One for Auto, one for manual.

I dont know what the difference is but it is listed in the workshop manual and I know a manual wont start with an auto dizzy.

Edited by 66yostagea

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