Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just what speed are you going when trying to shift down to first?

Really you shouldn't even be trying to shift into first if you are still moving

Exactly. First is for leaving the line. You shouldn't be changing into first until you are doing about 5kph.

That's what I do. When traffic is crawling like 5 km/h I change to first and it's hard it move the gearstick in there. I guess I can labour the engine or ride the clutch in second.

Edited by H4x

Even if the synchro on 1st is somehow worn out, a proper heel & toe rev match will allow you to change into 1st at any speed below redline. Of course doing so is only sensible at speeds that are low enough that it won't come on boost in 2nd instantly, but that's another matter.

Learn to drive.

Yeah, you really should stop before trying to put it in first- however if you get into the habit of double clutching you can make it easier on the synchros if you want to put the car in first and you're still moving- pop out the clutch in neutral and rev the engine (ideally to match road speed) before you engage first gear. I am assuming you are attempting to engage first at speeds that are too slow for 2nd gear to be useful.

edit- as above- you beat me to it, darn my slow typing.

Edited by doo doo

I want know what the problem is. Is it a worn synchro or something else? Remember it doesn't crunch while going into first.

Edit:

Also rev matching won't help, double clutching will if its a synchro.

Edited by H4x

mines a little bit sticky even 100% stationary .. usually when this happens i have to put it back in neutral, foot off the clutch, then try again and itll be fine - not really a big issue and doesnt bother me though

Sounds like you have the wrong oil in the box then or rooted oil. Mine is similar to your when its cold but when it warms up its better. My synchro's are a little worn. I would have thought rev matching it would help tho. It helps mine...

Hey, 180ks on the car and I highly doubt it's been changed before (engine oil looked like it had never been changed when I bought the car). I did think about changing the box oil, but there is a oil leak between the block and bellhousing, so I was sort of holding that off until the clutch f**ks out. About the rev matching, how does that help when the clutch is in? Shouldn't you put it in neutral (clutch out) and rev the engine to match your roadspeed then change to first?

Also rev matching won't help, double clutching will if its a synchro.

About the rev matching, how does that help when the clutch is in? Shouldn't you put it in neutral (clutch out) and rev the engine to match your roadspeed then change to first?

I did say heel & toe rev match. That tells you everything about what I meant. Clutch pedal down, move gearstick out of gear, clutch pedal up and roll right foot so ball of foot stays on brake pedal (assuming you're doing it under brakes) and blip throttle with side of foot, clutch back down and move gearstick into 1st, clutch back up with right foot now either firmly pressed on brake (assuming doing it under braking and not wanting to take off just yet) or firmly pressed on accelarator (assuming you've timed your shift correctly and you are now ready to abuse the tyres in 1st).

If you're not doing it whilst braking you can just blip the throttle normally.

Guys need some driving lessons, double-de-clutching is just rev matching.

You don't even need the clutch once your revs are right.

Try an old Mack quad box, only use the clutch for initial take off, then rev match all the rest, no clutch.

Miss a gear and you'll break your wrist.

No synchro on those bad boys.

I didn't say double clutch, because double clutch doesn't actually mean anything (unless you're talking about various modern gearboxes with two clutches). The correct term that you ae thinking of is double de-clutch, but you really only do the classic old style double declutch action in old non-synchro truck gearboxes. When you double de-clutch in a car in a performance context, the action that you use is the heel and toe movement. Nearly everyone that I can think of that knows anything about driving cars knows what heel & toe is. They never say double clutch, but they definitely say heel'n'toe.

^ how do you double clutch?

I have been trying to do this while i drag race ford falcons and holden commodores around the streets like brian did in fast and furious (except he raced american muscle cars!)

i think if i learn to double clutch, i will win, because brian learned to drive and he almost beat vin diesel in the 4th movie with his r34 skyline

i also have a r34 skyline - so if i learn to duble clutch, i think i can beat all muscle cars.

especially since i upgraded my exhorst and put my body kit on.

nyaanyaa.gif

I joke. I was actually gonna write that quote from fast/furious though Allan LOL

yeh mine does the same, hell even when trying to go from 3rd to second it sometimes doesnt want to slot in like it should (similiar to what it does going from 2nd to 1st at lower speeds).. synchros are knackered i believe, changed the oil months ago with no improvement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
    • It was gonna take much longer for the 440cc so I'd thought I'd risk it with the 550cc. They finally arrived and I couldn't wait any longer (I could but I was quite excited after 2 months) and installed them myself. Removed the old injectors, inserted the new and connected everything up. Before starting the car, I tuned the injector size from the factory 270cc to 550cc using Nistune.   This did some of the calculations automatically which catered for the TIM. The latency however did not seem to change. Deatschwerks have the tuning data available for each injector online, and I had a look at it. It has a table which relates to latency according to pressure and voltage (see below image). Nistune requires the 14v value, but I am unsure of which pressure value to look at (my lack of knowledge and experience have something to do with this). The highlighted value is close to my current latency which is 760µs. It is for 14v which makes sense, and the pressure is 31.6 Psi.   I still gave the car a test drive to see how it goes, and honestly it has never felt so powerful before (and some people say the RB20DE is very weak?). I really enjoyed the drive. Side note; The injectors are quite noisy, which someone mentioned before. This does not really bother me however. I will still ask my mechanic to have a look at it and perhaps ask a tuner to fine tune it if they have the knowledge.
    • Also true. But imagine not wanting new injectors? Imagine wanting to use 30 year old injectors?
×
×
  • Create New...