Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh mine does the same, hell even when trying to go from 3rd to second it sometimes doesnt want to slot in like it should (similiar to what it does going from 2nd to 1st at lower speeds).. synchros are knackered i believe, changed the oil months ago with no improvement.

Can confirm this guy can't drive :thumbsup:.

It really can't be that hard can it?

Every car that I have driven, you have to be going at low speeds to engage first, and even then 9/10 you can't just shift straight from 2nd to 1st, you have to rev match. Just like if you change from any other gear down, makes the transission so much nicer. I know my box isn't in the greatest condition but it's not that prominent with my driving style. I'm skews rev matching when down shifting. And hardly ever go into first on a roll. But when need be, I can do this.

I think practice is in order, seeing as I class myself as a amature. Don't worry about "is it the synchros" just get you're driving style up to par with the car you're driving.

Go drive yourselves an old ford or holden with three on the tree and then complain about a skyline box being hard. I leant to drive in these old pieces of crap and believe me the skyline box is like getting gobbys while driving compared to the old 3 on the tree.

Edited by Room42

Go drive yourselves an old ford or holden with three on the tree and then complain about a skyline box being hard. I leant to drive in these old pieces of crap and believe me the skyline box is like getting gobbys while driving compared to the old 3 on the tree.

I picked up an old LJ once and when driving it home I discovered it had like a black hole between 2nd and 3rd.. 1mm in the wrong direction the shifter went into space and was quite difficult to get back :laugh:

  • 7 months later...

Bringing the old thread back up to settle an argument. Between 2 friends

It didn't seem to fully get touched on after reading all the replies

I have during gear changes doing the following.

Clutch in, rev match while putting into next gear.

My house mate has been going the following.

Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, rev match, clutch in and into next gear.

My question is his technique any better for an r33 gtst's clutch, flywheel or gearbox.

Or is it exactly the same as my technique.

I double dip the clutch on a rev matched shift. It's not just about matching the revs, it's about using the (temporary) connection between engine revs and input shaft (via the briefly connected clutch) to spin the gear cluster up to speed.

Anyone who has driven a truck with no synchros at all will know how to do a proper double declutch downshift.

Edited by GTSBoy

I understand for older cars its needed.

But does it really need to be double dipped on our current 1990 gearboxes?

His understanding is that his is better for the car.

My understanding is that both ways are exactly the same for our syncro boxes

Vintage of gearbox makes no difference. It's still exactly the same mechanisms. A double dip on the clutch, while blipping the throttle, does the same thing in a box with synchros as it does in a box without. It makes the two shafts in the gearbox match speeds. This takes all the load off the synchros - they do not have to do anything - provided you actually do get the rev match pretty close.

if you do not double dip the clutch, then what you are doing with your throttle blip is just bringing the eng revs up to match the road speed in the new gear you are selecting. This does 1 thing desirable - it makes the end of the gear change smooth - so that there is no sudden application of engine braking force to the back wheels. Without a rev match, the engine braking effect can make a RWD car oversteer if you happen to be changing gear in the middle of a cornering event. BUT...what the throttle blip on it's own does not do, is match the speeds inside the gearbox. So the synchros still need to do the work of matching the speeds of the two shafts.

So, if you have worn synchros, then a single dip throttle blip change will do nothing to improve the shift itself. If you wish to not wear the synchros (assuming they are currently good), then the same applies. Only a double dip whilst blipping will do that job.

Which one you use will depend on exactly what you need to achieve. Me, I learnt to drive in an ALFA that had completely thrashed synchros on 2nd and 3rd (and pretty much rooted on 1st and 4th as well). So I learnt to change up a little slower and double dip blip change on the way down. Otherwise you could not drive it at all.

Go drive yourselves an old ford or holden with three on the tree and then complain about a skyline box being hard. I leant to drive in these old pieces of crap and believe me the skyline box is like getting gobbys while driving compared to the old 3 on the tree.

I've got a 1964 Datsun l320, three on the tree :). So fun to drive!

Bringing the old thread back up to settle an argument. Between 2 friends

It didn't seem to fully get touched on after reading all the replies

I have during gear changes doing the following.

Clutch in, rev match while putting into next gear.

My house mate has been going the following.

Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, rev match, clutch in and into next gear.

My question is his technique any better for an r33 gtst's clutch, flywheel or gearbox.

Or is it exactly the same as my technique.

Double clutching = waste of time on the upchange and will wear out your pressure plate and thrust bearing faster.

On the downchange is a different story. There are benefits to it, as explained by GTSboy. At low speeds in the traffic though, bit of a waste of time. And twice the movement = twice the time. You will always be able to downshift faster with one clutch-in than with two.

Keep in mind, that fast gearchanges are what ruin synchros. There's no reason synchros won't last the life of the car if the gearbox has been shifted slowly and nicely all the time. They are designed to bring the rest of the gearbox speed up to that of the mainshaft so the dog teeth of the gear will slot into place, selecting the gear. You shorten the time it needs to do this and it will wear faster.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...