Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

P plater, skyline, yep, expecting a whole heap of flaming but whatever.

Coming back home the other night from Eastern Creek my brother (of 28) notices that he doesn't like the way my clutch seems to be acting, he asks if he can take the car for a spin and find the issue.

Well, not really expecting it my brother off of first gear (first time driving my car) is hitting 8krpm, fine, whatever, it is late at night but if you must... He is really thrashing the car and I have no f**king idea what is happening (he has more experience so obviously he knows what he is doing)

But sitting at 60k's in 2nd with his foot down he starts pumping the clutch really quickly, now to my knowledge, this is not very advisable, heat and whatnot, let alone some damage... He thrashes the absolute shit out of it for about another 5 minutes before we arrive home where he tells me there is minor slippage and my clutch is actually sitting too high.

The next morning I've gone and started my car, like usual, taken off down the street, 1st gear, no problem, 2nd gear, car is revving and not getting much power (clutch is slipping right?)

Now to add on all of this, my clutch was very very very barely slipping prior to this and I'm not that thrashy with the clutch at all (Dumped it 5 times in 6 months). Did my brother screw my clutch?

Also, I've been hearing Exedy HD clutches would be good quality? Any advice on the situation and suggestions please.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378248-major-clutch-slippage/
Share on other sites

if the revs go up but you dont go anywhere or the revs almost seem like the car is in neutral then yes, clutch is slipping.

there is a rating somewhere of different power levels that particular clutches can take, I am pretty sure a Heavy duty will be more then ample for an n/a

yeah sounds like your brother thrashing the car was the straw that broke the camels back. the clutch was probably already shagged.

Exactly what I was thinking, my car was very drivable before, now it's just... undrivable :(

No money for a fair few weeks so I guess I play the waiting game now -_-

Thanks guys.

Dont waste your money on a heavy duty clutch, the friction disc is no different between a regular clutch and heavy duty one its just the pressure plate. Having a heavy pressure plate in a NA can do more harm than good as it can put a large load of stress on the bearings in the gearbox and you will get a rumble from the gearbox everytime you take off. Save yourself 30% of the price by getting a normal one that will not be any different to you.

Dont waste your money on a heavy duty clutch, the friction disc is no different between a regular clutch and heavy duty one its just the pressure plate. Having a heavy pressure plate in a NA can do more harm than good as it can put a large load of stress on the bearings in the gearbox and you will get a rumble from the gearbox everytime you take off. Save yourself 30% of the price by getting a normal one that will not be any different to you.

Wish I read that a couple months ago -.-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...