Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im thinking about starting my first bottom end build on the side to have it ready for when the time comes. It is used for a drift car with 300 to 320 kw on e85.

Im thinking of going 20 though cp pistons and going to aim for 2 thou main bearing clearance. Just have a few questions should i just go with a set of acl std race bearings and get the block align honed, crank polished and balanced. It is a 2 nd hand crank by the way. What is an accetable variance in clearances?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378470-rb25-bottom-end-build/
Share on other sites

If you want the motor to last it would be best to get it tunnel bored and the bearings done to match individual clearances (blue printing).

Whacking in 'standard size' bearings has only ever been a get out option for me, never used in an application other than reviving a dead motor.

A good machinist can machine anything and be consistent with the sizes, blue printing is making every cylinder identical but with parts these days having better technology for better consistent quality, you find blue printing bearings and pistons don't need to be done these days

and a tunnel bore is machining the main cap parting faces then boring back to factory size. over size bearings are for crank grinds

I see, well whether or not the crank will need a grind or linish i wont know until i get it as im researching now at this stage.

So firstly ill have to check the crank to see if in spec or not and whether it will need grinding then get a set a set of acl std bearings if crank is fine and give the machinist the clearances i want so he can do what machning is required.

Ive read that just using a plsstigauge for checking clearances isnt enough and should use a mic aswell is this true?

I have found plastigauge to be fairly good in the past. Also don't go out and purchase bearings until you know the condition of the crank, no point purchasing standard bearings then finding out the crank needs to be ground.

If you want to run with standard shells, then find a low k's motor is probably what you want to be doing. The higher the k's, the more chance the tolerances will be out.

Cheers.

In regards to the ring gap clearance for the cp pistons, having a look at there guide here http://www.cp-carrillo.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=LjC4jLmI4Ls%3d&tabid=74

Ive worked out for a 86.5mm bore that they should be .019" for top ring and for the second ring .023" and .015" for the oil rings that was based on the Nitrous/turbo supercharged application. Are people following these guidelines when doing it or are they using there own different gaps? Also from what Ive read so far the piston to bore clearance for cp pistons is 3.5thou but I havent found a document on CP's website where it talks about the it any thoughts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...