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myne does the same, wont budge from 69 on a cool night/cold day no matter how hard you drive it. also has a genuine thermostat in perfect working order.

OP, for a street car the standard clutch fan is much better than thermos, leave it as is and spend the money on other mods. if you have overheating issues, sort them out, thermos wont help at all.

You mustn't drive very hard then. I can promise you that if you went out to the sticks and took it over 6500 rpm in 5th that you would see it jump at least 10 degrees.

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My HR31 with a RB26 uses a RB clutch fan. Also has a Ally Radiator thats larger than factory by a fair margin.

I think we used a GTR fan and just modded the HR31 shroud to suit.

This seems to be the case with HR31's. The engine seems to sit further back than it does in a 4 door Aus Spec.

It seems the stock RB26 clutch fan and viscous clutch dont get too close to the fan in HR's.

In a 4 door, using the RB26 viscous clutch places the fan way way to close to the radiator. First stomp on the brakes and the fan is going into the rad, no ifs or buts.

I believe the engine mounts or possibly even the cross member may be different,.

Reason i'm almost certain the engine in a HR sits further back than in an Aus Spec 4 door is because of this fan dilemma and also because i bought a RWD RB26 extended and baffled sump from DECEIVE in WA that came out of his HR31. It fitted up fine in his car, but in my 4 door. Its fouling on the sway bar. IE, it appeared to me that the engine MUST sit further to the front of the car in an Aus spec.

I've never played with a HR before, nor have a i paid any close attention to the engine mounts/cross member.

Its got me baffled.

But back on the thermo subject. Stock clutch fan (RB25/Late RB26 type), good clutch and SHROUD with a good clean factory radiator should see you have no overheating problems. If i can get the factory clutch fan to work in my Aus Spec R31 without it hitting shit, i'll definitely be keeping it.

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Friend of mine has been trial fitting as 26/30 to a AUS 4-door, ill find out how thats gone :)

No worries. If hes using a factory/Ross/ATI RB26 balancer he'll run into this problem. If hes running a factory/Ross RB30 balancer he wont run into this problem i have.

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You mustn't drive very hard then. I can promise you that if you went out to the sticks and took it over 6500 rpm in 5th that you would see it jump at least 10 degrees.

i can promise you it wouldnt :thumbsup:, its never been over 76 on the street, even on 40 degree days. yes it'll budge if you sit on full load for extended periods but in your everyday thrashing it doesnt.

hr31 and aus spec engine mounts are 100% identical

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i can promise you it wouldnt :thumbsup:, its never been over 76 on the street, even on 40 degree days. yes it'll budge if you sit on full load for extended periods but in your everyday thrashing it doesnt.

hr31 and aus spec engine mounts are 100% identical

Have you tried it? There is a huge difference between giving it some stick in a couple of gears to get up to a hundred and holding it flat through all 5 of them. Like I said if you took it over 6500rpm in 5th I can promise you it would jump at least 10 degrees. I wouldn't recommend trying it as it is very dangerous driving at that speed, however you wont know till you've tried it. My car is very stable with the coolant temp and wont move with flooring it to the speed limit or sitting in traffic but it did move when I topped it out.

happy.gif

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To be honest it was done at the same time as alot of other mods, so impossible to confirm any difference. Any reduction in parasitic drag has to be good though ;)

It would make more of a difference in low rpm as this is where the fan has the highest ratio of drag vs rpm. This is a mod that I would try.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

If you run RB20DET engine mounts the engine will sit about 30mm closer to the rad, I have an aussie R31 with the above engine and clutch fan and shroud fits fine with rb30e engine mounts.

cheers

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Has anyone found out about any aftermarket replacement fans, viscous/ clutch fan, not thermo. My factory one is riddled with cracks and I can only assume a new genuine replacement one would cost a fortune.

Hopefully someone has???

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Just goto repco Mick, the should have a catalog of OEM replacment fans and trying and find one the same size.

But yeah...a New fan and clutch for my 1JZ was >$400 bucks plus 300 odd for the shroud :(

So I have themos on the car for now...and they suck!

Want my clutch fan back!

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Just goto repco Mick, the should have a catalog of OEM replacment fans and trying and find one the same size.

But yeah...a New fan and clutch for my 1JZ was >$400 bucks plus 300 odd for the shroud :(

So I have themos on the car for now...and they suck!

Want my clutch fan back!

I will try that out. Cheers!

I always automatically write off repco or local parts stores due to them usually not having any close for import cars. Especially the odd bits and pieces.

I did find a new fan only from rhdjapan for about $111 plus postage. Not too bad since thats the only bit I need.

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Just figured if a ford turbo uses thermos surley it would be more than fine for an rb.

I guess il give it ago soon.

One thing, my cars temp stays just under half after 15-20mins of driving but then even after a few hours of hills driving wont budge past just under half...

Cheers though guys

Stock guages are liers be carefull.....

And clutch fans are the bomb.... i know guys who are removing there thermos cos they cant keep temps down... but the thermos on the front cant hert just make shure there spinning the right way lol

Edited by britz1
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