Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That 1Dx looks the shit. Lets see how nikon responds. I've been following the D800 rumour mill, 38mp or something ridiculous. Either way, the next step in cameras looks like it's going to be a pretty strong leap forward

I know it's pretty crazy. My friend who is a serious photography was telling that canon are planning to release a camera that's 54mp or something like that.

He was saying that he can't wait cause a lot of photos he has been taking lately are on film and cost shit loads to develop.

I showed him photos of the Bisley V8 u took Matt and he was very impressed.

  • Replies 187
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why would you need 54megapixels but? Having more megapixels shouldnt get you all excited unless your printing on big billboards or actually doing proper commerical shoots. But then you should be using a mediuim format camera anyways.

You know hasselblad have been making 60plus megapixels for a long time. But totally different camera I know. Just saying.

Having more megapixels aint gonna make your pic look better.

Saying that I have used the h4d 50 and 40 and WOW. Lets just say my 16gb card filled up in no time. Will be using it again this weekend. Cant wait.

Hopefully canon brings out the 5d3 which is probably more affordable. Guess I got now till march to save up for the 1dx.

Even still would love to see some proper reviews on it specially the focusing system. Looks very interesting.

Edited by siddr20

Sidd what camera and lens did u use for that last shot?

I used a canon 5dm2 and all the pics except the wide shot of the house was taken with a 135L. The shot of the house was with a 24-70L.

Hope this helps.

Matt - nice shots of the landscape. I like the one with the ducks in the water.

How and why were u using a h4d sidd? Hire one or something? I'd love to play with one one day.

Thanks gtr, I've got one more shot to share from the Bisley shoot.

Thanks will, it was good to shoot some random stuff for a change. Back into it though, shooting a 34 with ztune kit and a 68 stand over the weekend :)

Yes it will still produce a sharp photo PROVIDING your settings are correct and focus is good.

Full Frame gives more depth and more dynamic range than a crop body (7D/50D/550D etc).

I hope this helps!

^ Yup what kory said. Having a better glass will improve your image quality, but you still need to get all the settings correct on the camera.

How and why were u using a h4d sidd? Hire one or something? I'd love to play with one one day.

Another photographer I know has one so will be borrowing his. Not sure if you can hire one easily here from a camera/lens hiring place. Actually maybe sunstudios but no doubt it will be couple of k each day. The camera is worth like 15-20k upwards depending on which model.

nice nice. i'd like to play around /watch someone use one properly one day. how did u find the tethering? Time consuming and annoying, or helpful?

Glass will help. Sensor in body will help. But what helps most is the tog. You can only polish a turd so much. :P

who has the better camera fight....funny as

edit: what do they mean by saying eg: "135L is too long", do they mean u have to stand back further from the subject to get in the frame ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3GsbiwYido

Edited by Astonish

who has the better camera fight....funny as

edit: what do they mean by saying eg: "135L is too long", do they mean u have to stand back further from the subject to get in the frame ?

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=q3GsbiwYido

lol wow thats alot of money wasted

"135L is too long" - Whoever said that means he thinks he needs to stand too far away from the subject to get them into the photo.

Awesome photo Sidd... Lots of emotion... really helps having such a sharp photo

Edited by wilorichie

Who said the 135L was too long? Well its a fixed prime lens so if you want to take a wide of something or fit a big group of people then it will be hard. You can take several steps back, but I normally use that lens for portraits or candid shots when I dont want to be in peoples faces.

If I were you, I would purchase the 70-200f4L lens. Super sharp and you will probably love the zoom factor. Also its not that expensive either. Go for that lens first before the 135L.

Cheers Richie.

Matt - fark you posing like a model bro!!! Time to create a page on MM :P hahahah

Latest blog post: 60% of shots taken with the 135L :)

http://sidd-rishi.com.au/blog/2/trinette-matts-wedding-2011/

Edited by siddr20

Nicely done Jay. Should work a treat, who cares if it's not pretty. Ghetto mods rock! Most of my paint kit is ghetto as. sponsored by Jaycar and shonkiness :P

Haha, my light painting kit just got an upgrade with some nice jaycar goodness. Now to find the time to use it, lol.

Gave the pano head a trial run today. Not sure if i found the nodal point properly, but wherever I moved it seemed to be working fine :confused:

(not that it matters, nothing is very straight with my setup, haha)

anyway, shot this today. spewing I didnt get a full 180 degree view in tho, had a play with some 360 deg pano viewers and this would have looked awesome if it wasnt missing a bit of sky and sand, lol

20111020-100645_P.thumb.JPG

link to larger version (600px max height)

will try and get some sort of pano viewer set up on my site soon

(oh, and panos that involve things like water are a pain in the ass :P)

Edited by Jay019

Great stiching job jay. Just looked at the bigger version. Look forward to seeing more from you.

Richie - Which pic? The one on the blog for that wedding? The first pic of the couple was probably around f11-f16, 1/160th, iso 400. Cant remember now but will have to check exif.

For the reception shots with the 135L, then it would be f2.8-f4. Hope this helps in some way? But dont follow my settings, there are other factors involved as well like ISO, shutter speed, flash settings.

But if you have specfic questions in regards to lighting etc then let me know.

Just checked out your website and noticed you do business card printing.. hmmm could be interested :)

Try a pano on a closer subject J. that will help u work out if nodal point is right. it looks close if not spot on though :)

I'm a model now. I'm gonig to put it up on a new website. Matts Models.. bypass model mayhem and go PRO :P I wish i could watermark my model shots with a special model watermark to proove i'm PRO.

here's a couple more jet ones...

6262791741_7ce2939d31_b.jpg

not the sharpest, but the colours in the sky/across plane are to good to ignore!

6263317092_5a69c24b2a_b.jpg

I'm dangerous. Who wants to be my wingman? ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...