Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Changed fuel filter. Charging laptop to go thru consult diagnostic tool as well as AEM fuel ignition controller piggyback ecu.

Will test later after kids dinner...... Shitty day :(

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's the CAS camshaft angle sensor

Where do I get a replacement asap?

Cheers.

I got my last one from Koji @ JIS in Windsor Gardens, cant remember specifically how much it cost but it was under $100...

-D

Thx, will call them & nisswreck on Monday, and Upullit tomorrow.

Edit: error log comes up with CAS. But yeah, I thought it could be afm too.... It's not starting again now, had to get neighbour to push me back off the road. He services cars, and first thing he said was CAS. Consult agrees.

Thx, will call them & nisswreck on Monday, and Upullit tomorrow.

Edit: error log comes up with CAS. But yeah, I thought it could be afm too.... It's not starting again now, had to get neighbour to push me back off the road. He services cars, and first thing he said was CAS. Consult agrees.

even with munted afm's, you should still be able to idle from the factory presets during limp mode, unless you've changed your injectors in which case it'll probably be running rich even in limp mode (it assumes 444cc injectors to nissan spec in limp mode and makes assumptions based upon the stock components). One way you can test an afm is to put it in the freezer for a cpl hours, or pour cold water on it while the unit is attached to the crank. As CAS's get older the housing expands due to heat and eventually the components inside the case dont come close enough to each other every cycle, so it doesnt register. If you ever suspect its a CAS error, pour water on the cas and wait a few minutes for it to cool down. If it cranks only after adding water (voila) then you can assume its the CAS

-D

*edit 444cc being the example for rb26, i dont know offhand what 20/25's are

Yeah must be cutting in/out. Will clean contacts in plug tomorrow, but I'd say I'm up for replacement.

Need to buy a replacement on Monday ( unless you want to sell, Zorro, lol?)

Edit: cheers dohmar, will try the water trick. But I'm fairly sure now that its the issue. I'm using S15 injectors, so 440cc. I don't believe its AFM, consult doesn't lie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
    • Inspiration: https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/HERITAGE_COLLECTION/Primera_GT.html    
    • Yeah, hard to find and a pain in the ass to change with the transverse engine. I’ve worked on a GTiR before and it’s not a job I’d ever want to do again. theres a company in South Africa that makes RS3 gearbox adaptors for the AWD SR20 including gearbox mounts, so I could modernise it and go a dual clutch with paddles. For now tho, it ticks all the boxes. Super cheap, can throw the kids and their junk in the back, and SR20 that I can turbo cheaply, a CVT that’s not a dog’s breakfast like the V35, and has 80% interchangeable parts with stuff I can source from the wreckers cheaply…. But it’s still unique. I love the wagon back of the Autech version. It’s cheap enough that I can buy another stock manual FWD Primera with SR20VE, swap the gearbox to the N15 pulsar short gear ratio box, swap out the brakes to the R32 ones I pulled off my 32, register it on club plates and take it racing. $1300 shipping from NZ. Heaps of parts and aftermarket builders for transverse SR20’s in NZ.
×
×
  • Create New...