Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would there be any performance or temp difference (whether increase or decrease) from swapping from a generic hybrid style core to a R33 GTR core?

those generic bar and plate coolers are very average once you start to up the boost. 17-18 on they heat soak real bad.

those generic bar and plate coolers are very average once you start to up the boost. 17-18 on they heat soak real bad.

Yeah it really depends.

Some generic stuff is fine, and some other makes/upgrade kits are using china cores for 400rwkw+ applications.

So gotta test pre/post boost drop etc.

those generic bar and plate coolers are very average once you start to up the boost. 17-18 on they heat soak real bad.

interesting, thanks for the info guys.

i will get my tuner to check for heatsoak when it gets tuned next week.

Status,

do you want to expand on why the r34 core is superior to the earlier intercoolers :yes:

someone correct me if im wrong! Though, 32 and 33 are the same, the34 only differance is it has Temp sensors attached.

Im still tryign to decide on this 32 GTR cooler for my GTS4 rb26.

someone correct me if im wrong! Though, 32 and 33 are the same, the34 only differance is it has Temp sensors attached.

Im still tryign to decide on this 32 GTR cooler for my GTS4 rb26.

cores are differrent. but them side by side you will see.

  • 10 months later...

we gained about 20kw switching from a standard 34 GTR cooler to a thicker 100mm unit on my brothers car, which has a 6262 on e85

although the power increase was also a result of another 4-5 psi of boost but our tuner said a thicker cooler was required to utilise the boost

jumped from 420 to 440kw.

and in terms of standard rubber piping... mine keeps tearing with -9s on e85.. I've had to replace the rubber pipe just below the twin turbo pipe 3 times now. Have a hard pipe kit waiting to go in. The rubber ones are 17 years old now and struggle with 25psi running through them.

Edited by usmair

seen a R34 blow the ends of the core as there not welded like they are on a 32/33

there like radiator end tanks style which didn't seem to like big boost only running n1 turbos or smoething

car only had low 300kw to did it on the track end up cutting the little flaps of the tanks and welding them on

we gained about 20kw switching from a standard 34 GTR cooler to a thicker 100mm unit on my brothers car, which has a 6262 on e85

although the power increase was also a result of another 4-5 psi of boost but our tuner said a thicker cooler was required to utilise the boost

jumped from 420 to 440kw.

Well that's nothing to do with the cooler really - just shows how good the GTR core really is if you screwed in 6psi for only 20rwkw after you went to a 100mm item, which is pretty average really (only 20rwkw for 6psi).

You'd sooner back off the 6psi and live with 20rwkw less and enjoy the much safer setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...