Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would there be any performance or temp difference (whether increase or decrease) from swapping from a generic hybrid style core to a R33 GTR core?

those generic bar and plate coolers are very average once you start to up the boost. 17-18 on they heat soak real bad.

those generic bar and plate coolers are very average once you start to up the boost. 17-18 on they heat soak real bad.

Yeah it really depends.

Some generic stuff is fine, and some other makes/upgrade kits are using china cores for 400rwkw+ applications.

So gotta test pre/post boost drop etc.

those generic bar and plate coolers are very average once you start to up the boost. 17-18 on they heat soak real bad.

interesting, thanks for the info guys.

i will get my tuner to check for heatsoak when it gets tuned next week.

Status,

do you want to expand on why the r34 core is superior to the earlier intercoolers :yes:

someone correct me if im wrong! Though, 32 and 33 are the same, the34 only differance is it has Temp sensors attached.

Im still tryign to decide on this 32 GTR cooler for my GTS4 rb26.

someone correct me if im wrong! Though, 32 and 33 are the same, the34 only differance is it has Temp sensors attached.

Im still tryign to decide on this 32 GTR cooler for my GTS4 rb26.

cores are differrent. but them side by side you will see.

  • 10 months later...

we gained about 20kw switching from a standard 34 GTR cooler to a thicker 100mm unit on my brothers car, which has a 6262 on e85

although the power increase was also a result of another 4-5 psi of boost but our tuner said a thicker cooler was required to utilise the boost

jumped from 420 to 440kw.

and in terms of standard rubber piping... mine keeps tearing with -9s on e85.. I've had to replace the rubber pipe just below the twin turbo pipe 3 times now. Have a hard pipe kit waiting to go in. The rubber ones are 17 years old now and struggle with 25psi running through them.

Edited by usmair

seen a R34 blow the ends of the core as there not welded like they are on a 32/33

there like radiator end tanks style which didn't seem to like big boost only running n1 turbos or smoething

car only had low 300kw to did it on the track end up cutting the little flaps of the tanks and welding them on

we gained about 20kw switching from a standard 34 GTR cooler to a thicker 100mm unit on my brothers car, which has a 6262 on e85

although the power increase was also a result of another 4-5 psi of boost but our tuner said a thicker cooler was required to utilise the boost

jumped from 420 to 440kw.

Well that's nothing to do with the cooler really - just shows how good the GTR core really is if you screwed in 6psi for only 20rwkw after you went to a 100mm item, which is pretty average really (only 20rwkw for 6psi).

You'd sooner back off the 6psi and live with 20rwkw less and enjoy the much safer setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...