Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, the plan with this car is basically to run a low 14/high 13 second pass while staying completely naturally aspirated so no nitrous/SC/turbo etc and while staying in street trim, so no stripping its guts out. Kinda want to do this just to prove it can be done and to stop people from calling NA cars slow, while they can't compete with a turbo $ for $, they do quite well for what they are.

Here are the Specs:

1990 Nissan 300ZX Z32 "Slicktop"

1430kg

131.4rwkw Dyno tested(previous owner)

Mods:

2.5" Twin UAS Catback Exhaust

2.5" Custom Front Pipes

K&N Pod Filter

Go Fast Bits Underdrive Pulley

F1 Racing "stage 3" 6 button clutch

ECUtalk Consult Display Unit

Bought the car back in 2009 with a 2.5" Custom catback, UDP, Pod & standard clutch for $6200. Was a very nice looking car, atleast to me, and the motor was in perfect nick so i decided to buy it.

From when i first bought it

40468_419246482610_631967610_5279391_5732458_n.jpg

39858_419246367610_631967610_5279386_2034086_n.jpg

40633_419246597610_631967610_5279396_6055831_n.jpg

DSC00227.jpg

Not long after i bought it did i have my first go at the dragstrip, here are some photo's

196863_10150100775893133_599203132_6325164_5372120_n1.jpg

196788_10150103152578133_599203132_6345852_1469485_n.jpg

190394_10150103152503133_599203132_6345850_4138484_n.jpg

184250_10150103152543133_599203132_6345851_5009052_n.jpg

185839_10150103152613133_599203132_6345853_1346527_n.jpg

After 5 runs the best i could come up with was a 15.017 @ 97.22MPH :(. My clutch was slipping on anything more then a 2500rpm launch so i had to take off really easy.

nem.jpg

About 5 months after that my clutch decided to call it quits, held up well for a stock clutch IMO. After looking for hours i decided on my new clutch, a "Gripforce F1" racing Stage 3 Button Clutch. Oh boy did this take some getting use to for the first day, soon as i picked up the car i got stuck in peakhour traffic!

stage_3-500x500.jpg

A good 1500k's had passed and the clutch had been well worn in i decided to have another crack at the drags, i HAD to get that 14 second pass!

Decided i would take it easy on my first run so i wouldn't stuff up, managed a 14.847 @ 95MPH first try! :happy: What was even funnier was that i had tried to select 4th but had trouble so i let off a bit before the finish line. Ok Second run, was really excited to see what i could get, time to see what it was capable of :D

sdstreetmeet051011_090.jpg

Timeslip, a 14.6!:

nemz.jpg

Not Bad considering a lot of first gear was wheelspin and i hit the rev limiter before the finish line! :D

Video of the run

Rear tyres are chinese 235/45R17's and were set to 25psi during my runs. After taking my car to Unigroup Engineering, Yavuz concluded that i should be able to run a 14.4 Second pass with a slightly better launch as my 60footer was a pathetic 2.315 seconds.

Mods coming up:

1 Piece Lightweigh Tailshaft

Decat Pipes for the track only

Piggyback Ecu of some sort, Either an APEXi SAFC or NIStune.

Kumho KU36 Semi Slicks.

Looking to get that 60footer down to 2.1 - 2.0 to see what i can squeeze out of it, no internal work done standard heads & bottom end. I'm fairly confident it will pull a low 14 second pass, just have to wait and see, will keep you guys updated!

Edited by Super Drager
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379898-project-na-300zx/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...