Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you return the BOV to stock catch cans are ok if they don't vent to atmosphere

but yeah if you don't care about the possibility of getting defected then yeah get the GT3076

from memory it is about $80 for a power run

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

f**k thats not bad. My old tuner for my ford was free for dyno runs ;)

Ha this vents to atmo

Bov has two settings for plump back at atmo

Eitherway cars off road in 12days try my luck at the track get used to it.

But yea just wanted to see what i could push through it last it had 3inch dump n shitty 2.5inch cat n shiity cat back, now its full 3.5 ;)

Then as always build the car the way i want it

The guys at Jaustech and also simon at morpowa are great as well, Heard good things about willall but I have never used them personally. I don't like boostworx as shaun doesn't use ANY knock detection when tuning, if you had a failing fuel pump it would almost certainly result in a popped motor.

I've also had 2 tunes from him that detonated as soon as the weather got above 25c and needed timing pulled out as he set the knock map to be identical to the normal fuel map.

He also doesn't do a road test/tune touch up nor does he test the cold start functionality, every tune I had had to go back to get him to fix the cold start.

Edited by Rolls

Yep rang up said same shit id probs have round the 220rwkw

But il find out friday afternoon ;) 60bucks for a dyno run

Then when they can fit me in for a tune see what i can get to, as far as i know iv got all

Mods to push the limits of the turbo.

If this is 220ish itl take me weeks to get used to 250 or 270

The internals will be fine for that. all depends on what rear housing youve got, if its the normal nissan highflow bill does your outta luck for that kind of boost., id suggest going a proper 3076, 20psi will see you too 300. mine makes 270 on 16psi easily enough

.... Thats a bit shit. I figured garret internals ment around the 20psi region

It isn't about what it can 'handle' it is about where it stops making power. You could probably run 28psi no worries, but whether you'd make any more power than 15psi all comes down to what combination of wheels are used.

The internals will be fine for that. all depends on what rear housing youve got, if its the normal nissan highflow bill does your outta luck for that kind of boost., id suggest going a proper 3076, 20psi will see you too 300. mine makes 270 on 16psi easily enough

Hypergear has them making 270kw with the stock rear housing, though they get seriously hot and he smashes 20psi+ through them to do that. Wouldn't be very detonation friendly.

Edited by Rolls

I'd run 16psi through it, maybe a touch more if you need too

I'm doing a safe 20psi with N1's on a 22 yr old bottom end. Replaced the gasket with a cometic mls 1.3mm unit, arp head bolts, smoothed head face etc

20psi is fine. Anything over that u wanna start worrying. I have the smallest turbo kit avail meaning it pumps less air at that PSI than a big one (ie a t51 can produce mammoth power at 7psi but is quite laggy and needs cams)... but psi is a matter for the tune, the gasket, the rings and valve seals. nothin to do with anything else - psi is all relative to the heat and volume of the air going in after all...

Put short I reckon 20 is doable on a stock engine in good nick, provided hes not running anything large (by large i mean anything that a) needs cams changed, b) is a single c) is bigger than a 2860-7 equivalent. Once you go over 350kw you're getting into the danger zone. I'd be happy if I got 300kw but really, the feel and response of the car is more important to me than any digits on a dyno chart

-D

Put short I reckon 20 is doable on a stock engine in good nick, provided hes not running anything large (by large i mean anything that a) needs cams changed, b) is a single c) is bigger than a 2860-7 equivalent. Once you go over 350kw you're getting into the danger zone. I'd be happy if I got 300kw but really, the feel and response of the car is more important to me than any digits on a dyno chart

-D

It isn't the psi that kills motors, hell it is hardly ever even the raw torque that kills them, theres a few blokes running over 400kw on stock engines, it is all down to heat and avoiding detonation, the torque limit for stock pistons is pretty damn high, they will withstand 400kw for quite some time if you keep temps under control and have absolutely zero detonation.

All in the tune imo.

Have the same high-flow 3076 internals from last years SAU dyno-day and pulled 274.7kw on 15psi (smaller rear housing), 220+ this year's SAU dyno-day on stock 7-8psi boost without a decent tune - reason for decrease was engine 're-build' as stock bottom end wasn't happy when past 18psi on a cold-chilly morning and thus replaced with forged internals. Therefore would agree that 16psi is a safe place to start with 'upper' limit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...