Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you return the BOV to stock catch cans are ok if they don't vent to atmosphere

but yeah if you don't care about the possibility of getting defected then yeah get the GT3076

from memory it is about $80 for a power run

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

f**k thats not bad. My old tuner for my ford was free for dyno runs ;)

Ha this vents to atmo

Bov has two settings for plump back at atmo

Eitherway cars off road in 12days try my luck at the track get used to it.

But yea just wanted to see what i could push through it last it had 3inch dump n shitty 2.5inch cat n shiity cat back, now its full 3.5 ;)

Then as always build the car the way i want it

The guys at Jaustech and also simon at morpowa are great as well, Heard good things about willall but I have never used them personally. I don't like boostworx as shaun doesn't use ANY knock detection when tuning, if you had a failing fuel pump it would almost certainly result in a popped motor.

I've also had 2 tunes from him that detonated as soon as the weather got above 25c and needed timing pulled out as he set the knock map to be identical to the normal fuel map.

He also doesn't do a road test/tune touch up nor does he test the cold start functionality, every tune I had had to go back to get him to fix the cold start.

Edited by Rolls

Yep rang up said same shit id probs have round the 220rwkw

But il find out friday afternoon ;) 60bucks for a dyno run

Then when they can fit me in for a tune see what i can get to, as far as i know iv got all

Mods to push the limits of the turbo.

If this is 220ish itl take me weeks to get used to 250 or 270

The internals will be fine for that. all depends on what rear housing youve got, if its the normal nissan highflow bill does your outta luck for that kind of boost., id suggest going a proper 3076, 20psi will see you too 300. mine makes 270 on 16psi easily enough

.... Thats a bit shit. I figured garret internals ment around the 20psi region

It isn't about what it can 'handle' it is about where it stops making power. You could probably run 28psi no worries, but whether you'd make any more power than 15psi all comes down to what combination of wheels are used.

The internals will be fine for that. all depends on what rear housing youve got, if its the normal nissan highflow bill does your outta luck for that kind of boost., id suggest going a proper 3076, 20psi will see you too 300. mine makes 270 on 16psi easily enough

Hypergear has them making 270kw with the stock rear housing, though they get seriously hot and he smashes 20psi+ through them to do that. Wouldn't be very detonation friendly.

Edited by Rolls

I'd run 16psi through it, maybe a touch more if you need too

I'm doing a safe 20psi with N1's on a 22 yr old bottom end. Replaced the gasket with a cometic mls 1.3mm unit, arp head bolts, smoothed head face etc

20psi is fine. Anything over that u wanna start worrying. I have the smallest turbo kit avail meaning it pumps less air at that PSI than a big one (ie a t51 can produce mammoth power at 7psi but is quite laggy and needs cams)... but psi is a matter for the tune, the gasket, the rings and valve seals. nothin to do with anything else - psi is all relative to the heat and volume of the air going in after all...

Put short I reckon 20 is doable on a stock engine in good nick, provided hes not running anything large (by large i mean anything that a) needs cams changed, b) is a single c) is bigger than a 2860-7 equivalent. Once you go over 350kw you're getting into the danger zone. I'd be happy if I got 300kw but really, the feel and response of the car is more important to me than any digits on a dyno chart

-D

Put short I reckon 20 is doable on a stock engine in good nick, provided hes not running anything large (by large i mean anything that a) needs cams changed, b) is a single c) is bigger than a 2860-7 equivalent. Once you go over 350kw you're getting into the danger zone. I'd be happy if I got 300kw but really, the feel and response of the car is more important to me than any digits on a dyno chart

-D

It isn't the psi that kills motors, hell it is hardly ever even the raw torque that kills them, theres a few blokes running over 400kw on stock engines, it is all down to heat and avoiding detonation, the torque limit for stock pistons is pretty damn high, they will withstand 400kw for quite some time if you keep temps under control and have absolutely zero detonation.

All in the tune imo.

Have the same high-flow 3076 internals from last years SAU dyno-day and pulled 274.7kw on 15psi (smaller rear housing), 220+ this year's SAU dyno-day on stock 7-8psi boost without a decent tune - reason for decrease was engine 're-build' as stock bottom end wasn't happy when past 18psi on a cold-chilly morning and thus replaced with forged internals. Therefore would agree that 16psi is a safe place to start with 'upper' limit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...