Jump to content
SAU Community

Requesting Some C34 Stagea Turbo Pictures

Bronx

By Bronx,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

hey all, just did a turbo swap on my stagea, stagea Neo OP6 turbo swap with a R34 NEO OP6 turbo.

the r34 turbo has a plasic feeling front wheel (it is also black in colour), also has a flex in it when pushed. was guessing thats the case since people say the front is plastic and rear is ceramic.

now my stagea had a different front compressor wheel. My guess its a alloy wheel as it isnt attracted to my magnet. its heavier and also has no flex in it

so im just trying to research if there was a different front wheel used in the stagea compared to a r34, or possibly if they had a revision of turbos through series 1 and 2 of the R34 skylines......

i dont know what year model the r34 turbo came out of, but my stagea is a 2001 build

so does anyone have pictures of their stagea's turbos?? plastic or metal wheel??? or any info at all??

also as a last note, my turbo is stock, not high flowed.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Maybe post up a pick of your turbo. Does it have any other markings. How many blades does it have and are they twin or single blades?

Mine was just the normal nylon/plastic comp wheel with the ceramic turbine. I have a 99 model.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

looks like the same style as the steel wheel compressors in the early model R33's before they changed to the nylon/plastic ones. i remember reading that one of the series's of the R34's had a steel wheel compressor, maybe the Stagea did too.

just found it. check out this link

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/69089-differences-between-r34-and-r33-turbo/page__view__findpost__p__1527454

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

aaah, indeed. well i guess it isnt steel. steel is attracted to magnets right? so alloy? also i didnt know there were 3 series cars. always thought that both r33 and r34 both only had 2 series each. i will see into this some more. also my nylon plastic turbo has twin blades on the front, just like the alloy one

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah the nylon ones do have a second fin but it's not as prominent as the steel ones, you can't really notice it looking down the compressor inlet.

Yes it will be some kind of alloy, I don't know what though. It all depends on the steel as to weather its magnetic or not ie stainless steel isn't magnetic.

I don't think the stagea followed the R34 and had a 3rd series, it's just an R34 thing. Apart from the garret turbo I know the fuel/ign mapping is different on the S3 R34's, I've compared the base maps of the R34s supplied with nistune.

Edited by QWK32
Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

really, r34 had 3 series? wow, but they had a short lifespan, 98-01 right? so one year per series nearly. all i know my compressor housing says 45v3 so makes sense. wonder what the power difference was between the 3 series's, turbo lag and fuel consumption.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

here are some pictures, i dont know what those random marks on the rear of it are though

post-74293-0-60423700-1318940364_thumb.jpg

The marks are where material has been removed to balance the impeller.

There is nothing per se wrong with a composite material impeller; it's cheap to manufacture, nice & light, which would aid response, and it's unlikely to destroy the housing or the engine if the centre bearing fails.

The only time it might be an issue, would be if you were to grossly overspeed the assembly, but I'd expect the ceramic exhaust turbine would fail first.

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

when i had my turbo out it had a black compressor wheel

pretty sure thats the nylon front wheel that all s2's and r34's should have

yours have have had a turbo swap at some point in its life

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah, i havnt had a turbo swap on my car, 100% sure on that, that thing was sooo rusted into the manifold, sure it was stock.

im guessing that 2000 onwards or late 2000 models had a steel wheel. I was pretty surprised when i found out should have swapped front wheels on the turbo, now im scared that plastic thing is gonna blow off. im running 13psi, might need to turn down now.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Should be alright, I ran mine stocker on 13psi, although only for about 6months until I upgraded it. I also ran a plastic wheeled R33 turbo at 14psi on my R32 for years without it failing.

I'll have a look on Nissan fast later and see what turbo part numbers I can find. But I reakon they followed the r34 and went to steel wheel in the late models.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

had a look in Nissan Fast

it lists 14411-AA100, the plastic wheel one, on all stagea's 08/98 and up. so all S2's. it does however list the 14411-AA110, the steel wheel one, as an alternative part number.

also a bit of useless info, in my version of fast it lists a replacement turbo at ¥120000 = $1516.

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so i wonder how the steel wheels managed to get stuck on the stagea????? maybe had some extra steel wheels floating around and nissan said lets just throw em on random turbos.... bahaha

id rather buy a garrett turbo than spend fkn 1500 on a stock new one......

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

so i wonder how the steel wheels managed to get stuck on the stagea????? maybe had some extra steel wheels floating around and nissan said lets just throw em on random turbos.... bahaha

id rather buy a garrett turbo than spend fkn 1500 on a stock new one......

probably popped when it was newish in japan => warranty replacement or somesuch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...