Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, just did a turbo swap on my stagea, stagea Neo OP6 turbo swap with a R34 NEO OP6 turbo.

the r34 turbo has a plasic feeling front wheel (it is also black in colour), also has a flex in it when pushed. was guessing thats the case since people say the front is plastic and rear is ceramic.

now my stagea had a different front compressor wheel. My guess its a alloy wheel as it isnt attracted to my magnet. its heavier and also has no flex in it

so im just trying to research if there was a different front wheel used in the stagea compared to a r34, or possibly if they had a revision of turbos through series 1 and 2 of the R34 skylines......

i dont know what year model the r34 turbo came out of, but my stagea is a 2001 build

so does anyone have pictures of their stagea's turbos?? plastic or metal wheel??? or any info at all??

also as a last note, my turbo is stock, not high flowed.

Maybe post up a pick of your turbo. Does it have any other markings. How many blades does it have and are they twin or single blades?

Mine was just the normal nylon/plastic comp wheel with the ceramic turbine. I have a 99 model.

looks like the same style as the steel wheel compressors in the early model R33's before they changed to the nylon/plastic ones. i remember reading that one of the series's of the R34's had a steel wheel compressor, maybe the Stagea did too.

just found it. check out this link

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/69089-differences-between-r34-and-r33-turbo/page__view__findpost__p__1527454

aaah, indeed. well i guess it isnt steel. steel is attracted to magnets right? so alloy? also i didnt know there were 3 series cars. always thought that both r33 and r34 both only had 2 series each. i will see into this some more. also my nylon plastic turbo has twin blades on the front, just like the alloy one

Yeah the nylon ones do have a second fin but it's not as prominent as the steel ones, you can't really notice it looking down the compressor inlet.

Yes it will be some kind of alloy, I don't know what though. It all depends on the steel as to weather its magnetic or not ie stainless steel isn't magnetic.

I don't think the stagea followed the R34 and had a 3rd series, it's just an R34 thing. Apart from the garret turbo I know the fuel/ign mapping is different on the S3 R34's, I've compared the base maps of the R34s supplied with nistune.

Edited by QWK32

really, r34 had 3 series? wow, but they had a short lifespan, 98-01 right? so one year per series nearly. all i know my compressor housing says 45v3 so makes sense. wonder what the power difference was between the 3 series's, turbo lag and fuel consumption.

here are some pictures, i dont know what those random marks on the rear of it are though

post-74293-0-60423700-1318940364_thumb.jpg

The marks are where material has been removed to balance the impeller.

There is nothing per se wrong with a composite material impeller; it's cheap to manufacture, nice & light, which would aid response, and it's unlikely to destroy the housing or the engine if the centre bearing fails.

The only time it might be an issue, would be if you were to grossly overspeed the assembly, but I'd expect the ceramic exhaust turbine would fail first.

when i had my turbo out it had a black compressor wheel

pretty sure thats the nylon front wheel that all s2's and r34's should have

yours have have had a turbo swap at some point in its life

yeah, i havnt had a turbo swap on my car, 100% sure on that, that thing was sooo rusted into the manifold, sure it was stock.

im guessing that 2000 onwards or late 2000 models had a steel wheel. I was pretty surprised when i found out should have swapped front wheels on the turbo, now im scared that plastic thing is gonna blow off. im running 13psi, might need to turn down now.

Should be alright, I ran mine stocker on 13psi, although only for about 6months until I upgraded it. I also ran a plastic wheeled R33 turbo at 14psi on my R32 for years without it failing.

I'll have a look on Nissan fast later and see what turbo part numbers I can find. But I reakon they followed the r34 and went to steel wheel in the late models.

had a look in Nissan Fast

it lists 14411-AA100, the plastic wheel one, on all stagea's 08/98 and up. so all S2's. it does however list the 14411-AA110, the steel wheel one, as an alternative part number.

also a bit of useless info, in my version of fast it lists a replacement turbo at ¥120000 = $1516.

so i wonder how the steel wheels managed to get stuck on the stagea????? maybe had some extra steel wheels floating around and nissan said lets just throw em on random turbos.... bahaha

id rather buy a garrett turbo than spend fkn 1500 on a stock new one......

so i wonder how the steel wheels managed to get stuck on the stagea????? maybe had some extra steel wheels floating around and nissan said lets just throw em on random turbos.... bahaha

id rather buy a garrett turbo than spend fkn 1500 on a stock new one......

probably popped when it was newish in japan => warranty replacement or somesuch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...