Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today I noticed when I took the car for a drive that it felt like something was holding it back, I did afew hard stops then continued to drive normally and still did the same thing

I then stopped on a slight incline took my foot of the brakes and the car didn't roll back.

I've had these calipers on my car for afew months now and it never did this, although when I used to drive past a wall for example I could hear a slight metal to metal noise, like the brake pads were slightly touching the rotors.

When I first put the brakes on the car there were no shims on the pads so I put some on and also that red shim anti squeal paste. I think the slight metal to metal noise started when I put the shims on?

What caused my fronts to start clamping today out of no where? I could also smell them after 15mins of braking

Any info would be great as I have tomorrow off to fix the prob

When I first put the brakes on the car there were no shims on the pads so I put some on and also that red shim anti squeal paste. I think the slight metal to metal noise started when I put the shims on?

What caused my fronts to start clamping today out of no where? I could also smell them after 15mins of braking

You may have answered your own question.

Take the shims out and see if it changes anything.

ok well i got back home from my gf's place and when i got home i had a look at the front brakes, the drivers side were very hot ! and passenger side was much much cooler, so it seems like the drivers side one in holding the pads firm against the rotor.

also noticed the drivers wheel gets more dustier then the passenger one...

il check out the shims tomorow

anything else worth trying?

il check out the shims tomorow

Do you remember if the rotor spun freely after you installed the shims? The shims will only be a problem if the shim+pads+rotor combined thickness causes it to bind.

Following on from what Roy said, be careful not to push a piston all the way out, so go gradually and put something in the caliper space to hold back the pistons that are moving well, and identify the stuck piston. Just installing the old worn pads should give you enough space. If you're doing it by yourself check the pistons between each pedal press. You may even find the stuck piston frees up after moving it out and back in again.

Could be a stuck piston, or your rotor is not running true. As was mentioned, check to see if one side is hotter. Or grab your old pads and check to see if they wore evenly. If not then your rotor is running off centre and needs to be remachined or reseated.

ok i took the pads out and they were realy hard to take out, the anti squeal goo from behind the shims had leaked, maybe with the heat and bonded the pads to the pistons, and the pistons to the caliper :S was real messy so i took all the goo out cleaned around the pistons, put them all the way in and out.

no stuck pistons which is good !

ive got everything back together but i havent had a chance to take the car out yet...

will report back later tonight :)

cheers for the replys

the anti squeal goo from behind the shims had leaked, maybe with the heat and bonded the pads to the pistons, and the pistons to the caliper

That's how its supposed to be. Squeal can be caused by vibration between the pad backing plate and the piston, so gluing them together stops the squeal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...