Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have tested the vehicle on a gas bench and everything is good has a lambda reading of 1.02. and all the other gas levels are within specs. i have recently replaced the coils, spark plugs, fuel filter and o2 sensor . i have also cleaned the air fuelter and afm.

the vehicle runs fine at idle but once you start crusing along anywhere between 80 and 120 with the engine at operating temperature the car se

ems to jolt as if a really bad miss is present.

i have also noticed that the power light flashes on start up. after running diagnostis the lock up solenoid signal is missing or faulty or something cant remember exactly what it means. could this have something to do with it?

the car is a 1993 nissan skyline r33 gts with an auto transmission.

any idea would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380791-r33-missfire-on-cruise/
Share on other sites

i have tested the vehicle on a gas bench and everything is good has a lambda reading of 1.02. and all the other gas levels are within specs. i have recently replaced the coils, spark plugs, fuel filter and o2 sensor . i have also cleaned the air fuelter and afm.

the vehicle runs fine at idle but once you start crusing along anywhere between 80 and 120 with the engine at operating temperature the car se

ems to jolt as if a really bad miss is present.

i have also noticed that the power light flashes on start up. after running diagnostis the lock up solenoid signal is missing or faulty or something cant remember exactly what it means. could this have something to do with it?

the car is a 1993 nissan skyline r33 gts with an auto transmission.

any idea would be appreciated

This is why I ask is it actually the engine missing or the transmission slipping/dropping out

Do the revs drop when this happens or do they stay the same/rise?

is it while cruising or while comming off the throttle? cause mine has started doing that

When you come off throttle and in gear the car should just hummm to a lower speed then it will burble when the rpm is too low for the gear. My car was running perfectly during cruise, now it lean pops its arse off ONLY during cruising. Full throttle, medium throttle etc is fine. Touching the throttle lightly to maintain a steady cruise speed sees lean popping.

500rpm drop is fair big... If it was your gearbox it would go up rather than down... Lean popping will cause your engines rpm to splutter around. If you have a big exhaust, hold the rpm with the window shut and you should hear the thud of the lean pop. My car is like. pop..........pop.....pop pop pop etc and revs bounce around and the car will jitter. Misfire sounds like a machine gun, kind of like lean pop but VERY rapid.

Only way is by sound and by AFR plots. This is misfire

its not a straight 500 drop. alot of the time i get multiples in a row adding up to 500 rpm. ill try your check next time it starts happening. what is your sugested fix for a lean pop?

I fixed my lean pop today, required a touch up in some cells in the tune. If you are running after market ECU, injectors and what not then it is very likely you will suffer from lean pop. Its common on Skylines and they require a little more fuel then stoich to run smooth.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Resizing injectors in Nistune can be done a couple of ways, and there are a couple of ways that you can make a mess of it. The tuner needs to be really aware of the effects of whichever approach he uses (either K, or TIM). They are both easy enough to "get the injector size right" to run the engine. But little details like old start enrichment and hot start are affected differently, depending on which boxes you check.
    • Pretty safe to say almost everyone that has tuned their own car has experienced this issue. The difference being that we have our laptop in the car and when it happens, it's literally 10 seconds of tuning to sort it.  Would you be happy to plug in your laptop and sort this yourself? It is a very simple process and there is no risk of harming your engine (if you are worried about that). 
    • Yeah thats the next step now, either they wil or i will take out for a drive to work and go straight their after work and see is we get the same issues 🤞  thought i try my luck here too, never know someone else might have had the same issue but thanks for the reply 
    • Basically your tuner needs to drive it for the 30 min (or whatever) to create the same conditions then check the ECU settings and sensors at that time. They may not be excited to because that takes them 30 min rather than just opening the bonnet and seeing the problem straight away.... Hot start is generally not as tricky as cold start, but there would be a table for fuel enrichment vs coolant temp as a starting point
    • Yeah, they all cant say anything for sure as everything is working fine . Said unable to find an issue untill it stops again. Could mist likely be CAS wiring or IAS valve issue but again not 100%
×
×
  • Create New...