Jump to content
SAU Community

Eat26 Mnp R33 Gtrvspec

EAT26
 Share

Recommended Posts

EAT26 Community Regular

EAT26

Posted
  • Author
Posted

when you don't reply it disturbs me more =[

Sorry Baby....

On another note ordered the following.

tomeirb26oilbaffle.jpg

And My builder ordered my oil pump on my behalf.

dscf6511.jpg

still waiting on my cam baffles but it'll get here should be soon :) build is coming together slowly but surely.

Dropped engine covers, and my greddy lip off the other day :).

  • Replies 172
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Force Fed Community Regular

Force Fed

Posted
Posted (edited)

I havent been on here much lately to see this thread.

Just caught wind of this. Have not heard anything about these failed pumps (which I normally would being an Aussie manufacturer) and if this is so I would be keen to hear about it. Can you enlighten me?

. In saying that we have only have two broken pumps out of the many 100's of units that we have sold internationally. Both these pumps had failed inner gears but were both due to the same reason which was from the pumps being installed onto used later model RB26 cranks that had the leading edge of the drive flats rounded which in turn enable the crank to try and turn within the inner gear. Obviously no matter how strong you manufacture a gear it is still a mechanical part that can fail given the correct environment to do so[/size]]

Yes, those highlighted points are taking it a little out of context to the full information, but it is still a failure.

Where did this come from? You should check your sent emails for that exact quote Andrew, because It came from your email.

Regards

Andrew McIntosh

Sales Manager

Nitto Performance Engineering

Now while I have you, you have a PM.

Chris.

Edited by Force Fed
Force Fed Community Regular

Force Fed

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am leaning more towards a HKS oil pump mainly because according to HKS Australia they are the ONLY oil pump that is 100% made in Japan...

:domokun:

http://www.reimax.co.jp/

Edited by Force Fed
NITTO Apprentice

NITTO

Posted
Posted

Hi Chris,

I'm glad you have an engine builder and are not one yourself. It seems that you don't quite understand basic mechanical properties which is fine but maybe next time you might think a bit further before posting up your ill informed wisdom.

Let me run through it - When you have a loaded gear that effectively driven inside by something that is larger than it (current twin flat RB inner gear design) then no matter how strong the gear is, it is still prone to failure if the drive is allowed to become a larger diameter than the ID hole in the gear. It does not matter if the gear is made from unobtainium and treated in kryptonite, it is still physically impossible for the gear to withstand the pressures being placed on it. It WILL still fail when the 2 materials are of similar nature in composition. IE: solid metal drive inside metal gear.

The "documented failures" you refer were not because of the product quality, they were a result of incorrect installation. Just the same as you can't blame a failed piston that has seen too much pre ignition on the manufacturer when it was the tuners issue that he could not tune properly (or other factors that are out of the piston manufactures scope that could cause the issue). A failure is not just a failure as you so professionally put it.

Nitto goes to a lot more expense than other manufactures to make these gears as strong as possible in both materials and processes used. This is fact. Have you tried emailing or calling HKS, Reimax, JUN, Greddy etc about their pumps asking where they are made, how they are made and about their failures? I would guess not and would also guess that you would not even get a reply. I'm not talking about a middleman wholesaler either that will tell you what you want to hear.

It is unfortunate that manufactures face this kind of flawed information being plastered over forums these days especially when it is information that has been directly supplied and obviously misunderstood by those that have recieved it due to not really understanding what they are reading. This is why you do not see many manufactures being actively involved in forums. Too many users trying to big note themselves to the wider community as gurus when their profession is something totally unrelated and their knowledge of what they are talking about is not up to scratch. It is a real shame. This by the way does not reflect the majority of forum users.

I reiterate once again - Nitto has not had any feedback on damaged gears in any way due to the product quality. ONLY due to ill fitment which was accepted by the installers in question. The "documented failuers" were documented by us and were not due to our product. Get it right next time before you suggest toward an issue being present that is not.

Force Fed Community Regular

Force Fed

Posted
Posted (edited)

I reiterate my own point

Yes, those highlighted points are taking it a little out of context to the full information, but it is still a failure.

I am aware of the mechanical issue with the collar not mating to the oil pump drive correctly.

I didnt blame NITTO directly for the failure, I mentioned that there had been TWO failures in relation to the pumps.

Yes, your information is from you directly, Why do you think I emailed you about the oil pumps you have in testing currently that use a different style of pump drive.

What issue did I mention was present? NONE, I brought up the fact, that you YOURSELF had told me of these 2 known failures, which is also good that a manufacturer can speak of them openly.

Check your pm's

Edited by Force Fed
  • 2 weeks later...
EAT26 Community Regular

EAT26

Posted
  • Author
Posted

As of today...

My engine builder has....

My Jun oil pump(Last 1 available in Japan, had to directly talk to JUN themselves.)

Tomei Sump Baffle

Hi Octane Cam baffles.

Let the fun begin :)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...