Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I have pal to ntsc converter (when a pal ps3 is hooked to the screen its black and white/wrong etc), a 1000w inverter and a spare ps3 (missus won in a competition). I was thinking for long drives etc for mates to watch vids/play games etc with 120gb of video/audio it would be the goods......So I hooked it all up in the back (above the spare wheel in that compartment) and I get a screen flicker thats quite bad (audio is fine). I have old thick gauge wirring that was to an amp in the back straight powered to the inverter and have tried hooking it straight from the battery (20 cm leads) to eliminate the wirring side of things.

Thought it must be interference with the inverter, so hooked up an extension cord to mains power and I still get the flicker :blink: .

When I have my creative mp4 player hooked up to the screen I have no issues at all (no flicker etc) video is ok......

So has anyone had a ps3/xbox or what ever hooked up to there M35 screen? Or has anyone had screen flicker issues with there M35?

I havent played around with it for long and my searches on the net don't come up with any solid info, any ideas from the electronics gurus on here?

Edited by MOUTH
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381328-m35-screen-flicker/
Share on other sites

i get flicker on the WD Live media player. but didnt with the new asuka tv tuner

there is probably interference in the car, use sheilded coaxial cabling.........

Hey mate I take it you were using an inverter to use the wd player? Last night I tried a xbox360 and ps2 all the same...... and then tried another screen I had laying around and it was fine. So its something to do with the factory screen and some interference between with ps3/pal to ntsc convertor and and the screen.

Edited by MOUTH

I remembered my screen use to get a bit of green waves and loose colour when then Vpp is to high. The screen likes a peak to peak voltage of about 1 volt. So if you measure the RCA plug from the shileld to the core on DC it should be around 1 volt when turned on.

I had a device that put out 2-3 volts peak to peak and the screen didnt like it.

In the specifications for the PS3 it should tell you the Vpp

Or I agree with the possible Hz difference between PAL and NTSC but saying that I would think the converter would sort that out otherwise its not really converting PAL to NTSC

Was the other screen you tried a NTSC or PAL screen and did you have the converter when you used the other screen if so it cant be the converter.

If you get really stuck you can bring it out and Ill have a look

I remembered my screen use to get a bit of green waves and loose colour when then Vpp is to high. The screen likes a peak to peak voltage of about 1 volt. So if you measure the RCA plug from the shileld to the core on DC it should be around 1 volt when turned on.

I had a device that put out 2-3 volts peak to peak and the screen didnt like it.

In the specifications for the PS3 it should tell you the Vpp

Or I agree with the possible Hz difference between PAL and NTSC but saying that I would think the converter would sort that out otherwise its not really converting PAL to NTSC

Was the other screen you tried a NTSC or PAL screen and did you have the converter when you used the other screen if so it cant be the converter.

If you get really stuck you can bring it out and Ill have a look

cheers brad will check it out

dude, why are you using a PAL to NTSC converter?

the PS3 will output NTSC from the composite video cables......

Tried this in the first place, black and white and screen flicker, with the convertor I get color.........and screen flicker....On the ps3 website it also says PAL for composite output (obviously if your in a pal region)

http://manuals.plays...ideooutput.html

Now reading this also I have just seen that it will only out put 576i through Pal composite..... whats the max that our ntsc screens do? 480i? Then this maybe the problem?

Edited by MOUTH

its not even 480! its analogue. with the 'Leon' tuner i got a perfect picture on the 576i/p setting, the 480p setting wasnt quite right.

just muck around with the PS3, i swear i can change mine to NTSC in the setup menu - of the PS3

its not even 480! its analogue. with the 'Leon' tuner i got a perfect picture on the 576i/p setting, the 480p setting wasnt quite right.

just muck around with the PS3, i swear i can change mine to NTSC in the setup menu - of the PS3

Sorry didn't even think about the digital-analog (480etc).........:unsure:

99.9% sure I cant change it to ntsc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...