Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here is the problems, turbo is a hypergear atr43 ss-1

Boost spike to 22psi then falls straight off to 14psi

80% of the time it only gets to 16/17psi

Has 500rpm lag over most other identical turbos

Only made 306hp.

Attempted fixes.

Removed air box

Tried pod filter

Tried different intercooler

Removed exhaust

Tried different exhaust

Pressure tested the whole system

Removed boost control

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381350-thread-for-my-car-problems/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

To add insult to injury. I got out accelerated by an xr6 :'(

My setup is as follows. K&N panel filter-z32-3"metal intake-turbo-jjr bellouth dump-gutted cat-hks hi power cat back-jjr return flow intercooler-turbosmart type 3 plum back-Nissan 350z 450cc injectors-walbro gss341-nistune

Notes on setup are a little disjointed.

Gearbox - auto or manual?

Boost control - straight feed to actuator now? Previously? And what difference observed?

Actuator - what pressure is it rated at? Is it set up ok? What pressure does the valve crack off its seat?

Boost delivery - do you have a dyno sheet with boost overlay? Saying it's 500rpm more laggy than other similar setups doesn't give a great insight into things, graph tells a whole lot more.

Dyno sheet - please upload one

looks like a very weak actuator, you say its rated at 18psi yet your boost is dropping off to 14psi? didnt think you can run lower boost than your actuator is rated at..

The actuator should be plumbed in off the turbo outlet, so it will hold x amount of psi at the turbo outlet. Theoretically that number should be the same as the pressure in your manifold, but only if everything else is working properly; boost leaks, pressure drop, restrictions, etc. will affect it.

He didn't tell me what afr he tuned to (annoyed me when I was driving home and realized) and I do have a torque graph, il put it up in a minute. He said he couldn't get it to hold full boost, he tightened the actuator adjustment and turned the boost control up. The actuator is plumbed into the fitting that used to go to the air con compressor solenoid?switch?

Only boost leak is through my open air tappet cover breather, holds 30psi if I put my finger in it.

i should also point out, my car makes 22 psi but doesnt feel like it makes power until it drops below 18/19, like kind of has that vvti+l feel after that.

Edited by lilcrash

if you put your finger in the cam cover breather it boosts to 30psi????

sounds like you have a strange boost leak...

maybe you should have the breathers plumbed up right and find your boost leak...? just a thought.whistling.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
    • Absolutely matters because, while a temperature change will eventually reach a sensor at the end of a static line, the response time is far far far too slow to be useful. Might as well not have a temp gauge at all.
    • When I was eyeing off the 370GT (after deciding I didn't want to spend 30-40k+ to relive my early 20s in an R33) I thought it'd be a good project to add a turbo to it. Now that I have a 370GT, and I've had a couple of chances to open it up, I'm pretty stunned by how much power it makes 🫠 Honestly, the way the VVEL opens it up, it almost feels like there's a little turbo tucked away in there somewhere. It's like Nissan looked at VTEC and said "hold my beer" 😁 Has anyone thrown a turbo into their 370Z or 370GT? Is there a conservative boost level you can run without having to upgrade the fuel system, or are bigger injectors and a bigger pump a given?
×
×
  • Create New...