Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I thought it would be a good idea but just confirming things. This is my first Nissan rebuild so parts that are actually easy to buy is new to me.

I can only find 3 pumps, n1, tomei and nitto. I'm pretty sure that the tomei and nitto would be over kill, but what about the n1. Is it too big too?

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

For future reference. The valves listed in the ferea catalogue are different to the Nissan valves. My machinist ordered one in to replace my worn out one and it didnt have the step down for the retainers, $45 was what he paid for it. Nissan are supplying me with a genuine one for $34.

The machinist was going to replace one valve yes. I didnt realize it was a different sort of valve, I never saw it. The ferea was the only one he could find for the 25neo.

Yep. Also know the feeling of trying to work out a problem that seems so simple to others, and yet in the end has nothing to do with what anyone said. Chocco, not everyone here is an expert on cars, give the guy a break.

Lilcrash, sorry if I missed it mate, but have you explained how you have your breathers plumbed in? I'm assuming you're using a catch can and it's not just the stock setup yeh?

Like when my car wouldn't start, I tried everything then suggested broken camshaft, everyone lold and said no way, in the end it was an broken camshaft haha.

Just read all this thread, when you finally get it running again promise you won't run more than 10psi without getting it to a tuner first, get the tuner to strip out timing and make it ridiculously rich, even up in the load cells you aren't close to touching. Then go play with the actuators and get the right boost, once you have the right boost take it back and get it tuned at that boost.

Remember if you change nothing you will blow the new motor up just as fast, the issue wasn't with the motor, it was with everything else.

Should save a repeat incident. Good luck with it all. :)

Edited by Rolls

I'm still confused as to what went wrong but yeah I am putting the smallest actuator I have here on I think it's about 7psi, depending on if I run it in on the road or on the dyno it will go straight to the dyno for run in or straight to the dyno after run in. I will get it looked over, dyno checked at 7psi and once I'm sure nothing is faulty I will put the original 20psi actuator ( that dropped to 14psi ) on and see what happens. hopefully It will hold 18psi to redline. If not il just put the 7psi on and turn it up to 1 bar and leave it.

Just for future reference, problems I've found so far - head gasket pealing apart, loose exhaust manifold nut( cause for the noise? ), inlet valve number 9 was about to drop as the retainer/valve stem area was worn and worn out rings in cyl 1

I'm still confused as to what went wrong but yeah I am putting the smallest actuator I have here on I think it's about 7psi, depending on if I run it in on the road or on the dyno it will go straight to the dyno for run in or straight to the dyno after run in. I will get it looked over, dyno checked at 7psi and once I'm sure nothing is faulty I will put the original 20psi actuator ( that dropped to 14psi ) on and see what happens. hopefully It will hold 18psi to redline. If not il just put the 7psi on and turn it up to 1 bar and leave it.

Just for future reference, problems I've found so far - head gasket pealing apart, loose exhaust manifold nut( cause for the noise? ), inlet valve number 9 was about to drop as the retainer/valve stem area was worn and worn out rings in cyl 1

You ran 25psi without a tune, that is what went wrong. Even 20psi when tuned for 15psi will almost certainly detonate. I remember telling you in the hypergear thread months ago not to do this, all it takes is 10 seconds of sustained detonation and pop goes your motor is the result the majority of the time.

Don't do anything and see what happens, get it on a dyno first thing and do not boost it even once. Get the tune right, then play with things WHILST on the dyno. If you don't I can guarantee you will blow up your new motor.

Please DO NOT put the 20psi actuator on without being on the dyno. All your problems that you listed are caused by detonation.

Edited by Rolls

yeah i meant i would be doing all the stuffing around while on the dyno. if its all caused by detonation then there is my answer, i didnt realize detonation could wear out rings. but it is good to know that the tune is to blame. so thanx *** *********** for all the problems you have caused, apart from the oil pouring out which was caused by the rings dieing due to prolonged detonation im guessing. that same detonation sound could be heard from the second i picked up my car, thats half the reason i called them 10 minutes after i picked it up, and never got a call back.

oh well new motor and new tuner, lets hope it all goes well.

I was on here asking questions about it when all hell broke lose in the first place.

I was never intending to make that much boost, I didn't really think the new actuator was that much bigger then my old one. Neither of the other actuators make the boost they are specified as so yeah stao said 22/23. I thought oh yeah 18/19.

Edited by lilcrash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...