Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Come on. What's your prediction.

I only assumed turbo failure because it stopped making noise and my exhaust got really quite. Zero induction noise.

I'm at a cross road now. My chosen tuner has started working at a workshop that I will never let my tires roll into ever again.

My prediction is that you are going to spend many many more dollars.

Then sell it at a massive loss.

Then buy a corolla wagon.

but the legend will live on for ever on SAU..

"Hey remember that Stagea" they'll say..

and the other one will go "lol.. yeah.. man that was some crazy shit... it was like watching a train wreck"

anyway...

I have no doubt that JEZ knows what he is doing.

But to drive 800km to get a tune is retarded of the highest order.

ESPECIALLY cause you are not willing to get a local person to at least do a quick tune of the cruise area of the map.

Your mindset of not going to EFI/ERD is proper retarded too.

apart from you, not a single person has ever had ANYTHING bad to say about that mob.

and you won't even explain why you won't go back to them apart from say "i had a bad experience..."

did they not print your receipt on recycled paper or something? and therefore are murderers?

anyway, I'm glad this thread is here because it is entertaining to read.

Carry on.

My prediction is that you are going to spend many many more dollars.

Then sell it at a massive loss.

Then buy a corolla wagon.

but the legend will live on for ever on SAU..

"Hey remember that Stagea" they'll say..

and the other one will go "lol.. yeah.. man that was some crazy shit... it was like watching a train wreck"

anyway...

I have no doubt that JEZ knows what he is doing.

But to drive 800km to get a tune is retarded of the highest order.

ESPECIALLY cause you are not willing to get a local person to at least do a quick tune of the cruise area of the map.

Your mindset of not going to EFI/ERD is proper retarded too.

apart from you, not a single person has ever had ANYTHING bad to say about that mob.

and you won't even explain why you won't go back to them apart from say "i had a bad experience..."

did they not print your receipt on recycled paper or something? and therefore are murderers?

anyway, I'm glad this thread is here because it is entertaining to read.

Carry on.

Problem is if he does take it there, and his shitty engine build with missing gaskets and only god knows what else, blows up, then he'll blame the tuner.

I'm curious as to how you have come to the conclusion that Efi has never had any other complaints. There is a long list of people who laughed at me for taking my car there, at the end of the day no tuner is going to get it right everyday. My problem wasn't so much with the tune, but the after tune questions. When you have a customer ring within minutes of leaving because things are going wrong, do you ignore it or ring them back when you get a chance? I'm not sure about you but when i get my car tuned then get a check engine light come up I worry.

I understand that you will all have your opinions of my engine build and that's fine.

Im very much past mouthing off about what was done to reduce my view of them and I think it's best left untold.

I agree that a few over boost situations may have weakend my piston and then it cracked under average driving conditions. There is still no answer to my boost problems and I'm hoping that these will be resolved this time it's on the dyno.

Edited by lilcrash

Problem is if he does take it there, and his shitty engine build with missing gaskets and only god knows what else, blows up, then he'll blame the tuner.

Seriously...

Does this thread need to live after this?

I knew this would happen but oh no a few members have faith.

After reading "oh my turbo stopped making noise" this kid has NO f**kin idea wtf is goin on.

An engine thats held together with hopes and dreams?

f**k me I wanna see this bad boy run 5bar through a stock turbo, might make some wicked sick

numbers.

Just jack it up and floor it in the garage at home and tune it like that I reakon, its about

as good as wat youll get from this build or slap together as Ill call it.

you guys are fucted, seriously...

yep he has made some strange mistakes but he is learning along the way...

I dont necessarily agree with his methods, but its like reading a book, I just dont know what will happen next when I turn the page...

I definitely hope it all turns out well Steven, but yeah more investigation, research & knowledge before jumping in and doing stuff is good advice...

800ks on an untuned freshly built motor, not the most sound logic...

I get the impression that most of you think this is my first car. Precautions were made before I did any excessive driving. Everything in the engine has been double checked. There is the same problem ratio as if anyone else had built it. At the end of the day if it dies its my fault. Things happen. I've made all the precautions I can.

Seriously...

Does this thread need to live after this?

I knew this would happen but oh no a few members have faith.

After reading "oh my turbo stopped making noise" this kid has NO f**kin idea wtf is goin on.

An engine thats held together with hopes and dreams?

f**k me I wanna see this bad boy run 5bar through a stock turbo, might make some wicked sick

numbers.

Just jack it up and floor it in the garage at home and tune it like that I reakon, its about

as good as wat youll get from this build or slap together as Ill call it.

I honestly, for the life of me, can NOT figure out what your problem is. Seriously, I wanna know. What's it to you? Why do you care so much? Honestly, I couldn't really care less whether Steven's rebuild works or it doesn't (no offense Steven). It's not my car, why would I? But I still wish him the best of luck with it, and I'll follow along and offer any help or advice that I can because that's just what you do. So why are you so desperate for this to fail? Are you really that narcissistic?

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok just want an opinion on what actuator I should attempt to use for my tune.

Low pressure - 6/7psi that creeps to 16-18psi with a boost control to try to get a constant 18-20psi

High pressure - 16psi sometimes normally 20psi that drops to 14psi with a boost control to try to hold boost on.

Logically I think the low pressure would be the smart choice but just want a second opinion.

Ok I tested the actuators on the bench,

Mid actuator - starts to move at 2psi, 100% at 28psi

High pressure - starts to move at 20psi, 100% at 50psi

I haven't tested the little one as its on the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...