Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So was rigging up a vacuum line to do the ol' skool steam cleaning of the engine....pulled off the boost controller hose that's connected to the bung on the std intercooler return pipe (connects to crossover pipe) and instead of it pulling air in at idle, it's pushing air out? So it's under pressure instead of under vacuum? How can that possibly be, shouldn't intake be under vacuum at idle?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381478-rb25-on-boost-at-idle/
Share on other sites

THIS

is what you are going to end up with

Really? what about WATER methanol injection... that does not cause this problem.. sure it might if heaps of water got in but a small mist couldn't hurt could it?

water meth is atomsied so it works, Have seen a conrod not 2 weeks ago that looked like the one above due to water in the cylinder.

Sucking water into your engine through a vac line is a new one, and also not the smartest idea in the world.

Really? what about WATER methanol injection... that does not cause this problem.. sure it might if heaps of water got in but a small mist couldn't hurt could it?

WMI operates at 150+psi and injects in the order of ML per minute a garden hose into a vacuum line does not operate the same way.

i think its mainly popular in the usa

i was a member of a usa subaru forum when i had my outback and a few ppl on there used to do it

ur supposed to use a thin clean line, warm the car up, raise the revs a little and dip the end of the clear line into some water and suck a little up, maybe 1-2cm's length on a 2-3mm hose

supposedly it'll vaporise a little on the way though the manifold and then turn to steam in the motor and clean the carbon out (subaru's apparently get a lot of shit in the heads/valves)

don't think i ever did it but yeah, just a little info for you guys

maybe i'll try it on my puss-bucket corolla :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...