Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr R32 - Fitting Gtr R33 Brembos And Dba Slotted Rotors

Sinista32

By Sinista32,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Hi crew,

As per topic I have my R32 GTR booked in tomorrow to have R33 GTR Brembo's fitted with new larger slotted Dba rotors as a minor brake upgrade.

I have fully forgotten about the rotor gaurd.

The new rotors are RDA to suit the 33 Brembo calipers and are obviously larger.

What should and/or can i do about the Rotor gaurds as they wont fit over the larger rotors :(

1. Wait and get some to fit

2. Flatten out to fit or

3. Remove entirely.

4. are the DBA 4000 series any good or should i be looking for something else ?

Those in the know your help will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

PS. I Posted in the <LI class=first>Skylines Australia > Modifications & Maintenance <LI>> Suspension, braking and tyres

But very quiet tonight :(

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

pinch.gif "paybacks a bitch"

I hear that DBA 4000 series rotors crack after 1 or 2 track days.

So getting the Club Spec DBA 4000 which are spose to be new. I'll let everyone now how it goes.

It's too late for me to do much else but advise others to go 5000 series or Project Mu for piece of mind and if you have the $$$$

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'd love too Kat but I dont have the coin to buy AP 6 pots ATM. I reckon all up Ive paid half the cost but likely half the stopping power too :(

So all done today.

Front stone gaurds straightend out, rears fit with less gap.

I'm now running the Brembo Calipers. I had them fully serviced by PBR prior to putting them on.

DBA Rotors T3 = 6 x 6 wiper slotted. (Newer design/model)

Bendix SRT pads ($291 a set !!) nxt time I'll go Project Mu.

HEL metal braided lines and good quality brake fluid.

Cost a damn fortune today :( -

Feels doughy on day 1.

Need to pump em up at the moment or they go halfway down prior to any feeling in the foot.

IS THIS NORMAL ?

I'm taking my GTR back on monday to have them re_bled.

I'll take your advice on putting through heat cycles before tracking next year.

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

When I had the EBC yellow pads in my were not the best(a bit doughy, needed 2 stabs to get instant response), but I think that may of had something to do with the install. EBC reds professionally installed work from start. I have not used the pads you have so can't comment on them.

Heat cycles are fairly standard and as per the manufacturers recomended bed in process. Gradual braking from 60-20, 8 times then let them cool a bit, then repeat say 4 times. Then from 100-40 and repeat. If you have acess to a private road higher speeds are also recomended. Firm but gradual without stopping seems to be the trick. I've never cracked a cheap RDA rotar doing multiple track days, sure they got a bit crazed, but they wore out before they developed into cracks.

With the R33 GTR brakes you won't lose much to the AP ones, sure the AP's are better but unless you have great tyres I don't think the on track differences should be that different in purely braking. Weight savings with the high end APs maybe?

GTRKat Grand Master

GTRKat

Posted
Posted

In combo with the Michelin Pilot Sport Cups they are amazing.

These ones are lighter, they're a variant that I got from the US called Competition Grey and are lighter than the standard AP six pots.

This kit is also running Mintex pads which don't seem to be too common but so far I'm pretty happy with them. See how they go when I get it on the track next year.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...