Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Being 2m tall i find myself either scraping my head on the roof of my skyline or riding around fat pizza style with the seat reclined all the way down. This isnt working for me anymore as it has started to give me back pain on long drives. And forget about a helmet. I have a hard time keeping the gel in my hair instead of the roof.

What do people do to get a lower ride height? I know Bride make low posiion seat rails that lower by 30mm but id prob be looking at something alot more. Some others have suggested bolting the seat to the floor. But i dont like the idea of not having adjustable seats and what issues would i run into with the boys in blue if i did do this?

Any solutions would be great.

Stock Skyline and Silvia seats are shockingly high. GTR seats will sit lower due to the way they are constructed and will bolt straight in.

But for you, look at Bride Cuga Hyper Low then goto Brown Davis or Meridian Motorsport and get them to fab up a custom rail for you.

Have your wallet ready though, a real Cuga HL is around $1600 and the rail will be $400 ish.

Have a chat to the guys at Import Monster, they should be able to sort you out with something second hand, then head off to Meridian.

But for you, look at Bride Cuga Hyper Low then goto Brown Davis or Meridian Motorsport and get them to fab up a seat rail for you.

I've managed to purchase some r34 gtr seats which I was hoping to use, but like others have mentioned, won't bolt in due to the design of the r34 gtt.

New bride seats might be a bit to pricy for me ATM so I think my only option is a custom rail. I'll try get intouch with the 2 shops you mentioned to see where I'm at.

a cut and shut of the factory seats cant be that pricey, and it can even look stock if the welds are grinded and smoothed flat. head to the fabrication section for a general quote

How much height could u shave off the oem rail is the question. I have a feeling not alot at all. But I'll check the fab section regardless. Thanks

btw...Do you guys know how low I could go woth a custom rail + r34 gtr seat?

I've managed to purchase some r34 gtr seats which I was hoping to use, but like others have mentioned, won't bolt in due to the design of the r34 gtt.

New bride seats might be a bit to pricy for me ATM so I think my only option is a custom rail. I'll try get intouch with the 2 shops you mentioned to see where I'm at.

How much height could u shave off the oem rail is the question. I have a feeling not alot at all. But I'll check the fab section regardless. Thanks

btw...Do you guys know how low I could go woth a custom rail + r34 gtr seat?

the drift blades?

just get some rails from NZ . you sit really low in them..

im looking at buying a set of blades.. would taken yours but yeh

I've got the blades sitting in the house bit also managed to score some real oem seats as well.

I guess it depends on which will work bettter and what I can possibly sell off. Bit you'll have to be more spesific on where in NZ I could buy these rails.

I just got in touch with Moridian Motorsport and brown davis which were both very helpful. Organised a time in person to get quoted up next week. Will Let u know how I go. Very excited.

Edited by Jap_Muscle

I've got the blades sitting in the house bit also managed to score some real oem seats as well.

I guess it depends on which will work bettter and what I can possibly sell off. Bit you'll have to be more spesific on where in NZ I could buy these rails.

I just got in touch with Moridian Motorsport and brown davis which were both very helpful. Organised a time in person to get quoted up next week. Will Let u know how I go. Very excited.

im not sure who in NZ? get in touch with sxx - richo (John) regarding them, has them in his 33 and your are really low.. they are fixed, but in the right position.

if you end up selling the drift for cheap let me know im in SE Melb and will grab em

ow, didn't see the 34GTT part. Yes other oem nissan will not work.

http://nzkw.com/

I use these, solid mounted, no rail. They get you nice and low. I use drift blades as well.

meridian and brown davis will get you lower with a rail though. Will cost more.

ow, didn't see the 34GTT part. Yes other oem nissan will not work.

http://nzkw.com/

I use these, solid mounted, no rail. They get you nice and low. I use drift blades as well.

meridian and brown davis will get you lower with a rail though. Will cost more.

How tall are you yourself john? Do you have alot of headroom with the nzkw rail?

Were your blades purchased down here in aust? or were they the nzkw variant? Also did the seat bolt straight up to their rail?

http://www.nzkw.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=104_93_96_130&products_id=252

@ $236.67 delievered to AUS i have to seriously consider these =]

Thanks for your time

My blades are from Autobarnz here in Aus. They basically bolt straight up, you have to make one of the holes in the rail a little larger so the seat bolts on.

I'm only 180-185. Easy helmet room.

Honestly I would like to lower, the latest gen blades are a little higher than the old ones by 10-15mm. The old blades where the best for seating height. I've got one in my brothers car

and it is seriously low.

oh also, email the NZ guys. They prices on the site are just indicative. They are actually cheaper.

sorry, second gen. the current ones are 3rd gen.

The second gen seats where the best, the most rigid, most supportive, softer padding. But I crashed into a solid wall and broke mine :(

The cat love sitting in it now.

they sold the second gen seats for 450 or something, so they have gone cheaper materials for the 3rd gen current ones at 150-200.

they are still good value, I have two. So they can't be too bad, comfy on long trips and work well for track work.

If you have Factory 34GTR seats are you able to take a photo of the bottom of the seat where the rail bolts up? If it is in the same spots as GTT seats would you be interested in swapping rails with me? I'd rather swap rails than swap all the feet with those on my standard seats.

If you have Factory 34GTR seats are you able to take a photo of the bottom of the seat where the rail bolts up? If it is in the same spots as GTT seats would you be interested in swapping rails with me? I'd rather swap rails than swap all the feet with those on my standard seats.

unfortunately not the same mate. i dont know why nissan decided it but the GTT is different to all the other skylines both floor mounting and seat mounting.

Bugger, I noticed it was different to 33 mounting but thought it might've been the same as GTR, woulda thought it would have been cheaper to keep the same floorpan as the GTR and the same rails for both. Or maybe the GTT way worked out cheaper so they kept the old way in the GTR as it cost more.

From the information I've gathered in this thread, R34 GTR seats bolt straight into 33 GTS-T? If so, can purchase from OP as they are useless to you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...