Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Diff In A Ba Falcon?

Charlie4401
 Share

Recommended Posts

Charlie4401 Community Regular

Charlie4401

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys, be fair

The R33 diff is a common conversion into BA falcons in drag racing and speedway circles. The trick is, that you need to use a front diff out of the GTS4 (NA). This will bolt straight in but you'll then have to convert the Falcon to 4 stud at the back. You'll also need to fit the Skyline steering rack and lock it out, but this has the benefit of giving you adjustable toe on the back of the Falcon. If you're half smart you can put a tee line into your power steering return lines, install a couple of electric solenoid actuated pilot valves and connect this to the unused terminals in the Falcon ECU to give you HICAS (you;ll need to call your local Pirtek dude to make up the hyd lines for you, as the Skyline and Falcon hydraulic fittings are different - Skylines use 1/4" BSPP and Falcon uses 3/8" NPT). Again, a little known fact that Ford played around with HICAS style rear steering, but gave it away as too costly on their budget spec taxis.

True

u wouldn't happen to know what the difference is between the front and rear diffs out of the skylines.???

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

The front diff is in the front and the rear diff is in the back

the front diff is open but you can convert it to LSD with a Phantom Grip assembly. To increase the locking, you use coarse lapping paste between the faces. Note you'll need to build up and machine the faces every 5000km because they'll wear out so quickly.

Problem.jpg?1236877228

Charlie4401 Community Regular

Charlie4401

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Actually you would be better off putting the below diff into your Falcon..

Komatsu HD785-5 Differential Assy

100% guarantee that you will not break it!!!

yeah cheers for that cuz i really needed another wanker telling me wat to do.... shut up unless you can make a good point about what i'm trying to do!!!

MadManz Enthusiast

MadManz

Posted
Posted

yeah cheers for that cuz i really needed another wanker telling me wat to do.... shut up unless you can make a good point about what i'm trying to do!!!

Oh dear!

Not my fault you drive a tractor... Just out of curiosity, have you asked this question on the ford forums?

Miguelone Grand Master

Miguelone

Posted
Posted

Why do yo9u want to? Why not just put in a falcodore clutch type LSD and be done with it. The viscous LSD isn't all that great and any entry/mid level aftermarket centre you will get for the 33 diff will be clutch type anyhow. Grab a rebuilt Falcon LSD, chuck it in and bobs your uncle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...