Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTR - 287KW@wheels - dyno attached.

jezzrrr

By jezzrrr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jezzrrr Community Regular

jezzrrr

Posted
Posted

This is the Dyno chart from my most recent mod to my 34 - the addition of the power FC, the difference is remarkable, the torque curve is much fatter than before and peak power has jumped too. Ant at SST is behind the tune which I should say was done in very little time and very reasonably priced.

I reccomend the PFC to anyone with a GTR I have them in both my 33 & 34 now and cannot fault them.

Other mods are:

* bigger intercooler

* HKS dump pipes

* full Blitz exhaust

* Pod air filters

Engine and Turbos are standard as is fuel system which is about as close to being maxed out as you can get.

I am in need of a clutch upgrade that is around the corner and this baby should run a decent time over the quarter.

Jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38198-r34-gtr-287kwwheels-dyno-attached/
Share on other sites
meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted

hi jezzrrr,

that's fanstastic.. yeh i think you've probably hit your max running std injectors, pump, afm's. However something doesn't sound right, I remember your last post you said 278kw @wheels. So what your saying is you only gained 9kw by installing the Power FC :confused:

Whoneedstherapy Veteran

Whoneedstherapy

Posted
Posted
It would have been good to see the dyno charts, seeing you had the opportunity to compare the before & after results with the Power FC..

it would've been a great comparison, as even though there may not be much of a gain at peak power, im sure the differing torque and power curves would show that there is alot more area under the curve than there was prior to the power fc being fitted. No point in having huge peak power if you've got nothing for 80% of the rev range.

jezzrrr Community Regular

jezzrrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The ECU that was in it before was a chipped (or VX Rommed) Jap item that ran ok at full tilt but crap everywhere else.

The main gain is in Torque throughout the range.

YES I think the AFR is a little rich and some more can be had from leaning that out ... does anyone have any input on that ?

Jeremy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...