Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bit late, but I'm very skeptical when it comes to wheel "sealants" nothing concrete, but i wonder how many of these products maintain their sealing properties under the high temps the wheels see due to brake heat.

I've come back from a drive where the wheels are too hot to touch, so gut feel, and it is just gut feel, tells me that most sealers would probably breakdown under that kind of heat.

idk, could be wrong!

So long as the condition of the "Clear" is good then a good quality sealant is all you need.

Zaino brand used to be one of the best but on a humid day, it can easily go a bit milky.

Optima brand makes a combo sealant with canauba and it's not as finicky. There are others around and about that are also good.

Your wheels are new, so the "Clear" will not have pit holes to allow brake dust in.

Any old wheels that do allow brake dust into the pores despite applying sealant will probably need a reapplication of "Clear" first - and even blast away the old "Clear".

here they are.

XXR 552s from the states. (aka Taiwan)

i know there not the greatest racing wheels in the world but i like to keep my things in good condition.

idk if i will use anything yet, just getting an idea.

thanks for that link, does anyone else use anything???

I'm really liking these rims, what size, width and offset are those?

here they are.

XXR 552s from the states. (aka Taiwan)

i know there not the greatest racing wheels in the world but i like to keep my things in good condition.

idk if i will use anything yet, just getting an idea.

thanks for that link, does anyone else use anything???

I'm really liking these rims, what size, width and offset are those?

Bit late, but I'm very skeptical when it comes to wheel "sealants" nothing concrete, but i wonder how many of these products maintain their sealing properties under the high temps the wheels see due to brake heat.

I've come back from a drive where the wheels are too hot to touch, so gut feel, and it is just gut feel, tells me that most sealers would probably breakdown under that kind of heat.

idk, could be wrong!

NISMO I completely agree. So waxes, polishes, etc. anything petroleum based I think is susceptible to breakdown at heat. So the challenge is to find something that doesn't.... which lead me away from anything wax related. I DO take my car on a regular basis to the track, and the amount of brake dust and melted rubber wheels collect is amazing, so being able to clean quickly is important to me.

Just speaking from my own experience...

NISMO I completely agree. So waxes, polishes, etc. anything petroleum based I think is susceptible to breakdown at heat. So the challenge is to find something that doesn't.... which lead me away from anything wax related. I DO take my car on a regular basis to the track, and the amount of brake dust and melted rubber wheels collect is amazing, so being able to clean quickly is important to me.

Just speaking from my own experience...

clean quickly - use FI's Power wheel cleaner

its amazing, most weeks i just spray a bit on and blast it off, every 3 weeks or so ill actually use a brush, but it works so well, the moment your brush touches any spot its sparkly clean!

i love it, my favourite product by FI and probably in the world

hah havent been in here for a while decided not to bother with it.

Murphys law says ill try and protect my wheels itll melt on and wreck them hah.

thanks alot for the feedback, im really happy with them.

post-76362-0-98543100-1322475486_thumb.jpg

I'm really liking these rims, what size, width and offset are those?

size is 18 8.5 with +30 offset.

ill probly be selling them after xmas seeing as i may be selling my car. PM if you think youd be interested around jan :P

  • 4 months later...

wait until you get to the track and find baked on brake dust Jen... then you'll see how hard it is to remove brake dust

with just normal street driving brake dust is hard to remove it sticky and hard to remove, I must admit though Im not exactly driving gently all the time...

I got my Iron X finally and I quickly tried it on half of one rim and yep the stuff removes brake dust awesomely... even the hard to remove stuff, spray on wait and hose off, a bit of agitation for the hard stuff...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...