Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol yea well u get to help me push it into the workshop so its a pain in the arse for u as well

i know we like them, i want some more opinions though :rolleyes:

comon guys, dont need to be an expert to have an opinion

:thanks:

I've had some on my car for about 3 months now but my cars not done yet so its been getting rolled in and out of the garage lol.

I'm running qfm pads, how about you?

Sorry I can't give you any feedback yet though

Ive got them on my car mate with ebc red stuff pads and hel braided lines made a huge difference! My car is only a gtst though they looked the best outta everything else i looked at so was sold purely on aesthetics lol

Standard size mate,

Yea I pretty much got them based on looks,

Running braided lines with remsa pads should be a good improvement hopefully

Haha!

Yeah it will be.

It will tighten up the brake response.

I've been running the RDA's on my car for a while cause they are inexpesive and don't crack under track conditions. I run A1RM's for the Street and Hawk Blues for track. Because both of these pads are super abrasive and I do about 4 track days per year I only get about 2 years from a set of rotors (or two sets of rotors for one set of race pads).

As long as you stick to street pads you should get good wear from them.

I think it is more the fact that the RDA rotors are a little soft

Correct.

Something like Project Mu SCR, or 4000 or 5000 Series DBA will last ALOT longer on aggressive pads due to their higher carbon content.

RDA (and indeed street series DBA and Project Mu CRD) are just basic street trade servicing items that have just been slotted for extra performance.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's almost certainly a reluctor generating an "AC" waveform. No, ECUs don't generally read those - they're usually set up for PWM square wave 0-5v stuff.
    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
×
×
  • Create New...