Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

giday all

well iv currentlly got a shagged 25/30 in my cefiro which had been running for no more than 1000k's. After destroying a gearbox, tailshaft and trans tunnel i had the car sit in a mates shed slowlly getting repaired for around 9 months. Now the day i got the driveline drama's sorted and the car back on the road i stupidlly got a bit too keen driving it and managed to toast all 6 cp piston's. my guess is the fuel in the tank loosing some octane over the 9month or so period it was sitting their. every piston has major detonation on the intake side only.

Now iv gone to speak with a well known builder about replacing the pistons and told him its going to be for a track only car.

He seemed certain id be much better off building a 26 or 25 for a track car cause no matter what i done i would just keep f**king balancer's and oil pumps due to the rb30's stroke and crank harmonic's and their was no cure for it,

Im curious to know how many people on here are running 300kw+ rb30 hybrids in track only car's, wether it be circuit or drift and doing so reliablly?

im hoping i can keep the 30 bottom end as the cars already set up for it, but moreso i want reliabillity in the thing..

cheeers a heap

tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382582-rb25-2630s-and-reliability/
Share on other sites

You could speak to Darren from Lewis Engines, hes just out of Adelaide & knows RB30's well! ph 85385154 or google his webpage.

Also, check out what RIPS has done with a standard'ish rb30 & the HighOctane time attack car!

Edited by Zorro

I wasnt to keen on naming names but darren at lewis is who i have spoken with as his shop is 10 minutes down the road from my place.

he assured me theirs nothing we could do to fix the rb30 problem, as when their coupled with a big turbo they rise threw the rev range to quicklly and have problems spinning balancers and oil pumps all the time.

my motor is currentlly running a twin scroll t04z but i had plans that once my motor was back on track to downsize to a smaller gtx turbo.

Hmm what do ya mean? Like something he's not telling me? I thought maybe he might have been trying to get him self more work by having me start from scratch with a used 26 block off him? He was positive I would keep having dramas staying with the 30 bottom end...

what are you using the car for, drifts, burnouts, circuit etc? What is your max rpm? limiter bashing? I believe the power curve ramp up is where some of the dramas are, as in a sudden vertical power graph (ie: gaining 200kw in under 1000rpm) can cause problems wth the oil pumps, but so long as everything is within tolerance, balanced correctly & your using a good balancer (ATI or ROSS & done up properly), with a quality oil pump, i cant see you having too many issues really, considering what other have done with rb30's! You could even use a block girdle to further reinforce it further (platinum racing offers these)! The problem with the oil pumps is common to all rb's really! Not sure how you managed to spin a balancer if it was done up right?

Darren is a very competant engine builder & is helping me with my rb30/25, we've discussed alot of these issues, it just seems strange that hes talking you out of the 30.

Balanced motor, Tomei pump, and Ross balancer, mine is limited to 7500 but I shift at 7200, the only problems Ive had was restricting the oil to the head, thats fixed now and Im loving the car, the down low power from the 30 makes up for the lack of high end revs I feel.

I am also running a TO4Z and making 355, 25/30, I must admit that Ive only had I day at the creek so far but it was run in for 400Ks then went to the drags on the SAU drag day which seen it have about 30 runs.

From what I understand you dont want to rev the 30 past 7500 if you want it to last.

Im loving the 30

Thoughts...

ah good good just what i wanted to read..

at the time being the car is still road registerable so my plans where to fix the motor and drive it sensiblly on the road for a couple months or untill its defected then will be track only, for drift that is. maybe a dash of grip.

and just to note, i havent spun a balancer, thats just what darren was saying will inevidably happen if i stick with the 30.

alright sweet, i currently have a nitto pump to go on and ill get darren to organise and fit a ross drift balancer and a good sump.

im gooona cap power at 300kw till i learn to drive it at that level and the limiter will be set at 7500.

cheers guys

I would go to a different workshop. Its not going to spin a balancer or destroy a pump if the engine is built correctly.

If you are going drift/track work mainly I would definitely invest in a good harmonic damper and probs go external oil pump. Two main critical things since limiter bashing is no doubt what will be happening. Good tune too!

alright sweet

when i went to see darren it was to have a bit of a look at the sump design he offers in the external oil pump kit's he sells.

he said even using that belt driven pump setup i would still have dramas. lol

might have a chat with rhemac's then.

cheeers

yeah when i went to see darren it was to have a look at the sump design that he offers with the external oil pump setup which i was going to have put on also, but yeah then he tells me it wont fix the rb30's problems.. lol

think ill have a speak with rhemac's and see what they can offer in the wet sump external oil pump department.

cheeers

One of the local drifters here in the west (borneo) runs a rb30det ceffy and has done for a while (gets thrashed sits on limiter all day). I asked about the build he said he went through a couple motors at the start all to do with oil issues but most of them still lasting a season or so. the latest motor has been in there for a few years with no problems, he said the only difference between the last motors and this was a dry sump setup. I would say for your street car no problems running standard gear but for a track car it might be worth the initial investment in a good dry sump setup or even a jun/nitto after market pump that way you can push your car hard without the thought in the back of your head that if you push too hard it will break.

the 3l shouldnt need to be revved as hard for the same results because of extra capacity obviously.

There are more non hybrid engines failed due to oil pump failure than RB30 harmonics. (obviously not as many about either, but enough)

as said, if it is built well, harmonics should not be an issue, especially for a 300kw motor, and up to 400kw because the revs are not (should not) be required anyway.

if the whole lot is all balanced, harmonics should not come into play. but that all depends on the budget also.

so many builders with great results as mentioned

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry but the harmonics have little to do with the crans balance.. the harmonics are caused by the defection in the crank when you make big power each firing stroke torques up the crank and then springs back.. The crank is a stiff mofo but it still twists and at some points in the rev range it hits a resonant frequency and the amount of angular displacement multiply s... It's still only a degree or two but it smashes oilpumps throws off belts and breaks balancers the point at which this happens is dependant on the mass of your rotating assembly the problem in our rb30's is the third order vibration with the node near the center bearing there are other modes of vibration but I believe that this vibration would cause the most angular displacement at the front end of the crank it happens at the flywheel too hence the loose flywheel there has been published journals by bmw loong a their straight sixes and they have gone all through it and aircraft in the old v 12(two straight sixes joined together) and ship engines all have thes e problems... And in ships and aircraft they just avoid those engine speeds bit hard in a car.. But I know for a fact that my rb in it's current form is resonant at 6800 or so because I have a solid center twinplate and the gearbox is hating life there did this on my phone so my writing is a bit retarded

Edited by DYNOBUSTER

The way i read that (had to do it more than once lol)

Is not so much harmonics, but simply bulk horsepower twisting the crank and causing failures (hence big $$ V8 race cars running $10k worth of billet crank)

I have always known harmonics to be related to Bore x stroke x rod length x pin height yadda yadda yadda

which at certain revs and load causes the harmonics.

As you say with aircraft engines, particularly some of the pratt and Whitney radials weren't to be operated between 1200-1750 rpm at low load (i.e on the ground) because without a heap of load on them the could and would shake themselves to bits.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...