Spc Performance Rear Camber/toe Bolts

[Jetwreck]

I'm not trying to be a smart arse by this comment but I am confused! I gather you are all talking about setups after coil overs/lowering.

A/ Are your trying to sort out the best tyre wear setup?

B/ Are you trying to work out the best handling setup?

If you are trying to work out the best handling setup your wasting your time unless you get your caster done followed by corner weighting, ride height and then the wheel alignment. Then go to a track and set up your shocks and sway bars to your driving style.....you also need to look at your bump steer...then back to the wheel alignment giving them feedback on how your car was acting!...just a short summary of what you need to do imo!

All of this will be irrelevant in 10,000km as your chassis will have changed anyway because more than likely you have no bracing.

P.S. This is why I hate fully adjustable coil overs for street unless your after stance that is!

Just trying to add input......I know these wagons handle.....but its to what extreme you want them I guess!

Edited January 9, 2012 by Jetwreck

[slippylotion]

Probably a one shot deal but I could do another if enough people want them. Since I'm sorted with a set I would probably charge an extra few bucks per 2 sets to cover my time organizing it. It would roughly be about $60 delivered to Adelaide for 2 sets in a GB.

Edited January 9, 2012 by slippylotion

[impul535w]

Sorry one other question:

Are the bolts you replace the ones that are offset?

Obviously the added adjustment in the SPC kit comes from the fact you are elongating the bolt but are the replacement bolts, if any, also offset?

[slippylotion]

For me it's getting a correct alignment for tyre wear on the street. I myself don't see these cars as a track car being so heavy and auto, so I wouldn't go that way, others might like to track them though.

I just found that running my ride height at 350mm F & R I had basically maxed out the rear adjustment and was still running 2deg neg camber. These SPC bolts gave the extra I needed with a bit left over.

Edited January 9, 2012 by slippylotion

[slippylotion]

You need to elongate the slot as these bolts have more offset than the Nissan bolt.

[impul535w]

So the type of bolt that SPC use is the same as the factory part but with more adjustment?

[slippylotion]

It's made slightly different but the same principle with more offset to give more adjustment.

[impul535w]

Cheers, if the GB goes ahead ill be down. Happy to pick them up too.

[bigkevracer]

Here's the camber arms I was told would fit. Haven't been given a price but I'd expect them to be ~$150-200.

[slippylotion]

That arm won't fit the M35, it will only fit the V35. M35 has the mount in the arm for the shocker to bolt to it where as the V35 shocker does not bolt to that arm.

The cradle in your pic is an M35 cradle as you can see the bolt still in the factory arm where the shocker bolts to it. Notice that a/market arm has no place for the shocker mount bolt.

This is the factory M35 rear camber arm modified in Japan by a company called Nagisa Auto and cost 85,000 yen in Japan, so well over $1000AUD via Streeter or Import Monster.

Edited January 9, 2012 by slippylotion

[Commsman]

Hey Craig, nice summary of suspension setup. For me the lowering was 90% for looks (that's one reason I went softer springs on the BC's) & so these bolts & other bits we're all discussing are to help with tyre wear, for me anyway. The handling on my car is more than adequate for street driving with what's been done to date.

[bigkevracer]

I'll talk to the bloke in the morning, since he told me he had a set on his NM35. If it ends up they don't fit, I'll be ordering a set of the SPC bolts if anyone else missed the first order?

[impul535w]

Me.

[jasevr4]

This is the M35 castor rod. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/itemdetails/28594

You would use the bush that Craig linked that is offset to gain more castor.

So the bush that Craig linked needs to be pressed onto the rod?

[scotty nm35]

Yes.

[slippylotion]

The old bush would need to be pressed out. I'm not sure if the new bush can be pushed in by hand, I could easily do this with the super pro front upper arm bushes, pressed out with a press and pushed back in by hand. Otherwise you would need to press them in.

Edited January 9, 2012 by slippylotion

[jasevr4]

Ok, sounds likely that it's a pay job then. Time to find someone that has the bushes in stock and can do the work.

[slippylotion]

If you have time just remove the castor rods yourself then drop them off to get the bushes removed/installed and then refit the arms yourself. It should cost less than $100 to get the bushes done.

[jasevr4]

It'll need a wheel alignment on the front end once it's done anyway so it might not work out to be too expensive getting it done somewhere. Plus I don't have a spare car unfortunately.

[bigkevracer]

Ok there's a few guys keen so I'm going to place an order. Except when Paul ordered them they were $21, now the web site is saying $48.82?

Anyway, if you're keen, let me know and let me know how many sets you want.

So far I think we've got:

impul535w x 2

Ironpaw x 2

If there's anyone else let me know, probably order late next week depending on the exchange rate.