Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone else has major concerns for the japanese car scene.

I'm about to become a tradesmen as all new tradesmen consider is Western Australia to haul the big bucks.

So I was think hmm I'll be pretty well off whiledoing it and seeing as I don't go out drinking much anymore maybe I could upgrade my gtt to a 34 gtr which I've dreamed of having since I was a boy.

But I got thinking, do I really want to spend 50,000 dollars on a possible 12 year old car?

So I got looking and thought hmm maybe an evo 9, fast, 4wd which I'd like, looks good. But it just doesn't have that same trophy/weekend car that the gtr would have in a garage.

I've looked at mps (fwd :(), wrx (to popular, same problem as evo) r35 (I'm Not a millionaire), Honda integra, (not showy enough and I like turbos)

What's happened to the r34 the rx7 the supras the s15s even?!

Does anyone with an unbias opinion think a r34 gtr is worth the amount of money when you could get nearly 2 evo 9s for the price??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382821-whats-happening-to-the-car-scene/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R34's are priced the way they are because people are still willing to pay that price

in general you don't buy imports on common sense alone, you buy them because you enjoy them.

I'd get an R34 GTR over 2 evo 9's any day of the week just because I prefer them, you can throw any amount of money on either to go fast but at the end of the day a GTR will put a bigger smile on my face than an evo.

You put a R34 GTR next to any other JDM import car then tell me what you think.

You then drive by another JDM car and tell me what you think again.

cause when i had my GTR every car i put it next to i would think , im so glad i got a GTR

and when you boost pass the other cars in your GTR you will see how slow they are. --- P.S don't kill your self.

Im a Toyota convert.

but seriously my near standard 1JZ soarer will stick with a near standard R32-34 GTR in a straight line.

It cost $7500, is much comfier to sit in, is immune to the wrong attention, sure the brakes aren't as good standard and lacks 4wd etc

but imo a 34 GTR isnt $40k better, however if I had $50k to spend on a car a 34 GTR would be on the list

(I would buy a 2001 model Supra though ;) )

But dont buy one thinking it is king of the road.

you will be embarrassed at the lights by an SS commodore, embarrassed at the track by a mild S13

Buy one because YOU want one, never buy an enthusiast car thinking you can sell it for what you paid, you will ALWAYS loose money.

Perfect example I paid $16.5k for my old 33 gtst back in the day...I sold it for 1500 bucks after spending 10's of thousands on it

Only you can decide whether paying 50k for a 12 year old car is worth it or buy a 13 year old GTR for half as much

You all make pretty good points, I would buy one knowing those things zebra because of what longs said.

But I don't think I could justify buying a 13 year old car for that amount.

Why couldn't they make them a little later!! Or make a replacement for it.

Im a Toyota conartist.

but seriously my near standard 1JZ soarer will stick with a detuned R32-34 GTR in a straight line.

It's worth $2500, is less comfier to sit in, is prone to the wrong attention by true enthusiasts, sure the brakes are inferior standard and corners like a dog etc

but imo a 34 GTR isnt $60k better, however if I had $62500k to spend on a car a 34 GTR would be on the list

(I would buy a 2001 model Supra though as plan B ;) )

But dont buy one thinking it is pawn of the road. 'Tis king!

Any SS commodore will be embarrassed at the lights, and any S13 will be embarrassed at the track by a mild R34 GT-R

Buy one because YOU want one, never buy an enthusiast car thinking you can sell it for what you paid, you will NOT ALWAYS lose money.

My bad example: I paid $16.5k for my old 33 gtst back in the day...I sold it for 1500 bucks after spending 10's of thousands on it. I was a fool.

Only you can decide whether paying 50k for a 12 year old car is worth it or buy a 13 year old GTR for half as much

* Grammar fixed - but QFT :thumbsup:

but imo a 34 GTR isnt $40k better, however if I had $50k to spend on a car a 34 GTR would be on the list

(I would buy a 2001 model Supra though ;) )

you will be embarrassed at the lights by an SS commodore

Buy one because YOU want one, never buy an enthusiast car thinking you can sell it for what you paid, you will ALWAYS loose money.

Perfect example I paid $16.5k for my old 33 gtst back in the day...I sold it for 1500 bucks after spending 10's of thousands on it

Only you can decide whether paying 50k for a 12 year old car is worth it or buy a 13 year old GTR for half as much

Yeah I should have added these kind of points to my original post, you get an R34 GTR because you want one & are willing to make the investment of time, mods & money, replacement parts, all adds up so if you do it, you need to be prepared to have it for the long haul to make it worth it imo

oh & my car doesn't get embarassed by even VE ss commos, I doubt it would an embarass even a stock standard R34 GTR

oh noes!

busted :(

aww you can have some of my leftovers if you want, but be warned they have abandonment issues after being with me :wacko:

well you've got two options.

1)get settled buy house then buy gtr. :)

2)buy gtr, then sell gtr to pay for house. :(

if you don't beleve me, look on car sales and see how many gtrs are for sale because the owner wants to buy a house.

besides when you buy a house you might be able to buy a r35 by then. :)

have a think about it, you are the only one who can make this decision. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...