Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone else has major concerns for the japanese car scene.

I'm about to become a tradesmen as all new tradesmen consider is Western Australia to haul the big bucks.

So I was think hmm I'll be pretty well off whiledoing it and seeing as I don't go out drinking much anymore maybe I could upgrade my gtt to a 34 gtr which I've dreamed of having since I was a boy.

But I got thinking, do I really want to spend 50,000 dollars on a possible 12 year old car?

So I got looking and thought hmm maybe an evo 9, fast, 4wd which I'd like, looks good. But it just doesn't have that same trophy/weekend car that the gtr would have in a garage.

I've looked at mps (fwd :(), wrx (to popular, same problem as evo) r35 (I'm Not a millionaire), Honda integra, (not showy enough and I like turbos)

What's happened to the r34 the rx7 the supras the s15s even?!

Does anyone with an unbias opinion think a r34 gtr is worth the amount of money when you could get nearly 2 evo 9s for the price??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382821-whats-happening-to-the-car-scene/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R34's are priced the way they are because people are still willing to pay that price

in general you don't buy imports on common sense alone, you buy them because you enjoy them.

I'd get an R34 GTR over 2 evo 9's any day of the week just because I prefer them, you can throw any amount of money on either to go fast but at the end of the day a GTR will put a bigger smile on my face than an evo.

You put a R34 GTR next to any other JDM import car then tell me what you think.

You then drive by another JDM car and tell me what you think again.

cause when i had my GTR every car i put it next to i would think , im so glad i got a GTR

and when you boost pass the other cars in your GTR you will see how slow they are. --- P.S don't kill your self.

Im a Toyota convert.

but seriously my near standard 1JZ soarer will stick with a near standard R32-34 GTR in a straight line.

It cost $7500, is much comfier to sit in, is immune to the wrong attention, sure the brakes aren't as good standard and lacks 4wd etc

but imo a 34 GTR isnt $40k better, however if I had $50k to spend on a car a 34 GTR would be on the list

(I would buy a 2001 model Supra though ;) )

But dont buy one thinking it is king of the road.

you will be embarrassed at the lights by an SS commodore, embarrassed at the track by a mild S13

Buy one because YOU want one, never buy an enthusiast car thinking you can sell it for what you paid, you will ALWAYS loose money.

Perfect example I paid $16.5k for my old 33 gtst back in the day...I sold it for 1500 bucks after spending 10's of thousands on it

Only you can decide whether paying 50k for a 12 year old car is worth it or buy a 13 year old GTR for half as much

You all make pretty good points, I would buy one knowing those things zebra because of what longs said.

But I don't think I could justify buying a 13 year old car for that amount.

Why couldn't they make them a little later!! Or make a replacement for it.

Im a Toyota conartist.

but seriously my near standard 1JZ soarer will stick with a detuned R32-34 GTR in a straight line.

It's worth $2500, is less comfier to sit in, is prone to the wrong attention by true enthusiasts, sure the brakes are inferior standard and corners like a dog etc

but imo a 34 GTR isnt $60k better, however if I had $62500k to spend on a car a 34 GTR would be on the list

(I would buy a 2001 model Supra though as plan B ;) )

But dont buy one thinking it is pawn of the road. 'Tis king!

Any SS commodore will be embarrassed at the lights, and any S13 will be embarrassed at the track by a mild R34 GT-R

Buy one because YOU want one, never buy an enthusiast car thinking you can sell it for what you paid, you will NOT ALWAYS lose money.

My bad example: I paid $16.5k for my old 33 gtst back in the day...I sold it for 1500 bucks after spending 10's of thousands on it. I was a fool.

Only you can decide whether paying 50k for a 12 year old car is worth it or buy a 13 year old GTR for half as much

* Grammar fixed - but QFT :thumbsup:

but imo a 34 GTR isnt $40k better, however if I had $50k to spend on a car a 34 GTR would be on the list

(I would buy a 2001 model Supra though ;) )

you will be embarrassed at the lights by an SS commodore

Buy one because YOU want one, never buy an enthusiast car thinking you can sell it for what you paid, you will ALWAYS loose money.

Perfect example I paid $16.5k for my old 33 gtst back in the day...I sold it for 1500 bucks after spending 10's of thousands on it

Only you can decide whether paying 50k for a 12 year old car is worth it or buy a 13 year old GTR for half as much

Yeah I should have added these kind of points to my original post, you get an R34 GTR because you want one & are willing to make the investment of time, mods & money, replacement parts, all adds up so if you do it, you need to be prepared to have it for the long haul to make it worth it imo

oh & my car doesn't get embarassed by even VE ss commos, I doubt it would an embarass even a stock standard R34 GTR

oh noes!

busted :(

aww you can have some of my leftovers if you want, but be warned they have abandonment issues after being with me :wacko:

well you've got two options.

1)get settled buy house then buy gtr. :)

2)buy gtr, then sell gtr to pay for house. :(

if you don't beleve me, look on car sales and see how many gtrs are for sale because the owner wants to buy a house.

besides when you buy a house you might be able to buy a r35 by then. :)

have a think about it, you are the only one who can make this decision. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...