Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I welded two 30 cm aluminium pieces of flatbar onto the top of my intercooler and bent them to fit onto existing holes near the bonnet latch. I drilled one hole per support at the top.

I used the threaded fittings on the bottom of the intercooler and ran some mild steel flatbar about 15 cm long to existing holes under the radiator support. I only drilled two holes per bar here.

I got it as high as I could and as far back as the piping kit would allow.

It would be entirely possible to make brackets with no welding whatsoever but I was lazy and welded the top.

Aaannnnddd I opened the box, opened packet of bolts and nuts, read the Japanese instructions...well looked at the pictures and inserted tab A into slot A and was done lol

you forgot this..."And paid double" lol

For all the stuff I read on here about ill fitting kits mine fit perfectly the first time. How easy do you need it to be?

I welded two 30 cm aluminium pieces of flatbar onto the top of my intercooler and bent them to fit onto existing holes near the bonnet latch. I drilled one hole per support at the top.

I used the threaded fittings on the bottom of the intercooler and ran some mild steel flatbar about 15 cm long to existing holes under the radiator support. I only drilled two holes per bar here.

I got it as high as I could and as far back as the piping kit would allow.

It would be entirely possible to make brackets with no welding whatsoever but I was lazy and welded the top.

Yep another straight fit buckchoy FMIC. Cheap if you can do all these things to make it fit.

Some of us end up paying someone to do these things and double the initial price feels cheaper and easier than wondering what the final cost is going to be.

i got a cheap cheapo china kit for about 400$..i went to fit it and some bits fit some didnt..then i realized I had to chop my bar up..hmm..then i realized if I flip it upside down and chop the ends of it I could fit it next to the radiator so i did that..then i had a chopped up cooler with no pipe..then i paid a guy a few hundred dollars to weld new ends on then chop all my pipe up and reweld it so it could fit..took a day or so..

So my cheap china cooler ended up costing as much if not more as a good quality brand name one..seems to work ok, though I think a good quality one would probably cool/flow and look a little better..

bUT...

if I had bought a good quality one I wouldnt of had the guts to butcher like we did and

If I had of mounted a good quality one in the usual spot I would of had to chop up my fornt bar which doesnt look pretty with a S1

AND

when my missus ditched the car in the dirt it would have been destroyed and we wouldnt have drove home like I did ....

Anyway thats my cooler story :D

My advice, if you want life to be easy, spend 6 or 700, get a decent quality one that fits straight out the box.

I skip read through most of this and the one that seemed most interesting was the undertray tests..

i ripped my undertrays out ages ago and never thought twice about putting them back in...

Has anyone tested anything like this on skylines...?

is it worth putting the trays in or making others..?

I haven't seen a race car without one, not that I've seen very many, I assume that if wasn't need they wouldn't have one.

I liked the bit about bonnet vents, that is the reason I got the style I did.

Yep another straight fit buckchoy FMIC. Cheap if you can do all these things to make it fit.

Some of us end up paying someone to do these things and double the initial price feels cheaper and easier than wondering what the final cost is going to be.

Lol my fmic is made in America. But there is a good point there none the less. If you can drill a hole or use a hacksaw or plan out an install of any description then you are pretty right. The welding I did would only cost $20 to get done.

I almost never pay to get work on my car done. But then I've had a huge amount of experience with mechanics and fabricating. I'm happy to help people for significantly less than a mechanic. Payment is always in beer. Advice is free.

If you don't know how to use a hand drill, angle grinder, hacksaw or any of these kind of tools then either go out and buy them and practice or do a quick course. The money you will save will more than pay for the tools and tuition.

At the end of the day if you don't know what you are doing then find someone who does. At best you will save yourself money. Worse case, if you f**k up stuff like brakes and steering, you or the person you crash into could end up seriously hurt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The trouble with phone apps is that they really do not know the sensitivity of the mic on each specific phone, whether there is some sort of cover or skin that can change that, etc etc. So the readings off them are not calibrated. You certainly couldn't be sure that you were even within 3 dB. I have the same app on two (actually more than that) different phones/tablets and the readings in the same room at the same time are never the same. I don't mind the apps - they are as useful as a dyno - if you're testing for delta from thing1 to thing2. But not to try to generate some sort of absolute value.
    • I'm gonna use the "Sound Meter" app from the Google Play Store and as close as I can bother to these procedures: 4. TEST METHOD FOR ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT PRE ADR83 IN-SERVICE GOODS VEHICLES AND OMNIBUSES 4.1 Microphone position 4.1.1 The microphone shall be directed towards the orifice of the exhaust outlet and shall be supported by a tripod or similar device not providing excessive acoustic reflection. The general requirements for positioning microphones are shown in the Appendix. 4.1.2 The nominal axis of maximum sensitivity of the microphone shall be substantially parallel to the test site surface and shall make an angle of 45 degrees ±10 degrees with the principal direction of gas flow from the exhaust. 4.1.3 In selecting the 45 degree alignment from the outlet of a motor vehicle fitted with two or more outlets, only the angle resulting in the microphone being farthest from any other outlet must be used. National Stationary Exhaust Noise Test Procedures for In-Service Motor Vehicles Page 3 4.1.4 The height of the microphone above the test site surface shall be equal to that of the orifice of the exhaust outlet ±25mm but shall not be less than 200mm above the test site surface. 4.1.5 The distance of the microphone from the exhaust outlet orifice shall be 500mm±25mm. 4.1.6 [Relates to vertical exhaust outlets] 4.1.7 For vehicles fitted with one exhaust outlet the microphone shall be placed so that the greatest possible distance is achieved between it and the vehicle. 4.1.8 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] 4.1.9 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] TLDR: 200mm off ground 45 degree angle relative to exhaust flow 500mm from tailpipe exit. (I probably won't use a tripod) Here's a photo, cause I read the instructions wrong myself.
    • No ABS, no TCS, no airbags, no cruise control, no lane departure assist, no emergency brake assist, no orange lights in the mirrors (continuously annoying me in multi-lane traffic), no stupid rear view camera. I am the one responsible for where my car goes and how it does it.
    • Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
    • Probably best way would be using a proper dB / SPL meter lol Buy one and ship it from state to state to have a consistent test device lololol  
×
×
  • Create New...