Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have searched and noticed most people got the 5" body cat from venom I'm going to order a cat from venom but not sure what one to get I think the 5" body will be overkill as I'm still only running stock turbo but will soon be upgrading and looking at 300kw would the 4.5" body be a better bet for my application Oh my exhaust is a 3" from turbo back

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383207-45-body-venom-cat/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just some food for thought about flow. My R33GTSt will turn the tires for about 100m in 3rd when it comes on boost at 110kph. I'm still using a stock cat.

So? Same as the people that say a 3" exhaust flows 350rwkw.

Swap it to something that flows better and then they pick up power, torque and response. 40rwkw is not uncommon when the restriction is that bad.

Less restriction = happier motor, tune and everything associated.

Just because something "makes XXXrwkw" doesn't mean it can't be better for simple changes.

So? Same as the people that say a 3" exhaust flows 350rwkw.

Swap it to something that flows better and then they pick up power, torque and response. 40rwkw is not uncommon when the restriction is that bad.

Less restriction = happier motor, tune and everything associated.

Just because something "makes XXXrwkw" doesn't mean it can't be better for simple changes.

I generally agree with everything you say in your post.

One of the points that I implied in my previous post is there was that the OP has a stock turbo and worrying about a 4.5 or a 5 inch cat should be way down the list. Getting one or the other is not even worth considering. Just get either. If the OP is chasing power then there are plenty of better ways to get it.

I have dyno'd a 600hp engine that with a 3 inch system. It lost power with a 4 inch system. It wasn't a turbo engine but the overkill principle is still the same.

Someone might pick up 40rwkw (maybe me when I pull my finger out and swap the cat) but it wont be the OP with his current setup.

I took a couple of guys for a drive the other day and the first thing they commented on was how quiet my car is. The next thing was how it surprised them by how well it went.

Cop bait is not always best and a loud exhaust is one of the primary thing you will get picked up for.

I picked up 2mph in the 33 just by running a cat delete pipe over the standard cat...no change in the tune, but would pull harder from 6k to 7krpm.

side note - changing from the standard dump pipe with 3" front pipe to a 3" bell mouth dump/front made no difference.

Done back to back on the same day at Heathcote

Edit - all on standard turbo

Just some food for thought about flow. My R33GTSt will turn the tires for about 100m in 3rd when it comes on boost at 110kph. I'm still using a stock cat.

so would mine with a 2.5" emissions cat but you will find that you are building up a lot of pressure in there before the cat, mine blew out both gaskets pre cat.

I picked up 2mph in the 33 just by running a cat delete pipe over the standard cat...no change in the tune, but would pull harder from 6k to 7krpm.

side note - changing from the standard dump pipe with 3" front pipe to a 3" bell mouth dump/front made no difference.

Done back to back on the same day at Heathcote

That isn't a lot of difference. Sure, it is something though.

Gotta love changing a hot exhaust tongue.gif

I have dyno'd a 600hp engine that with a 3 inch system. It lost power with a 4 inch system. It wasn't a turbo engine but the overkill principle is still the same.

N/A & turbo are not the same by any means. Comparing the two is misleading.

And 2mph from removing a CAT is actually quite a big gain realistically for a stock turbo.

I picked up 2mph in the 33 just by running a cat delete pipe over the standard cat...no change in the tune, but would pull harder from 6k to 7krpm.

side note - changing from the standard dump pipe with 3" front pipe to a 3" bell mouth dump/front made no difference.

Done back to back on the same day at Heathcote

Edit - all on standard turbo

I just picked up a JJR 3" dump/front last week, are u saying it will make stuff-all difference to my set-up with stock turbo??pinch.gif (see signature below for my set-up).. Just realized I have a 4" body 3" inlet and outlet 100 cell metal cat (Lobokka brand off ebay), instead of a 5" body which people recommend, is this going to restrict my exhaust when I get 280-300rwkw down the track later???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...