Jump to content
SAU Community

Budget Ecu's

zebra

By zebra,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

Well the most likely reason for it is the TCS, or lack of it. As I transplanted this engine into a GT shell, at the time I decided to scrap the traction control as it was going to be a bitch to wire up and I had no use for it. Had been planning on going forward facing anyway, so I would have just had to delete it again anyway.

I wasn't aware at the time that it would cause so much trouble with DTC's. Even with the feedback switched off, the ECU would still pull timing. So after talking with Matt and Pete, I sent the ECU to Matt and he bench tested it and reprogrammed it with a SII Stagea image to get rid of the DTC's. Since then I haven't had it back on the dyno so I never 100% confirmed that this had been the issue, but it didn't once misfire since being reprogrammed, so I think that did sort it out. Then I decided that if I needed to get it back on the dyno anyway, I may as well upgrade to ID1000's and put on the Plazmaman plenum beforehand. And that brings us to now, with an ECU that no longer works :(

the r34 thats giving me hell on e85 has the plazaman plenum too... it went backwards too. Its fine on 98 but lost lots of mid and same top end as std plenum.

Sounds like you exhausted all avenues.

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

We use the GT101 sensor and get a mounting bracket made. Currently CRG are making them for us and we are going to try the Kulig Engineering ones.

If you hit up R33_Racer on the forums here he could possibly give you more information on their kits as we are yet to use it but it's very small and compact.

The ones we use from CRG are larger but so far very stable.

  • 1 year later...
Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

Right, just a lil recap.....

Since this thread was started for recommendations for a piggy back ecu for the 1JZ, I thought i'd just keep it here one time....

I have a JDM 2Jzgte vvti auto in an Atisto and have been busting my balls trying to find a simple ecu just to tidy up the afrs and timing with the addition of a wmi kit (only 95 here) and boost up of a few psi. Its going to remain stock turbs, inj etc.

Was also looking for one that would have a boost cut control(clamp) and a speed cut control so I was leaning towards the emanage ultimate. I browsed through the supra fourms and have gotten lots of conflicting reports about the emu so just throwing it up here for advice.

My main concern is timing control and the issue of the stock ecu fighting the emu

So what do you guys think? And any other recommendations without busting the bank?

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks, will have a look into it now smile.gif

Also...anyone who has used the current wolf ECU's...is there any way of changing the load scale from percentage to a pressure readout?

because to me % of load means nothing

Know this is a really old post but there is good reason for that. Load doesn't equal PSI or anything like that, with a MAF load equals airflow and you can have 10x the airflow at 10psi at 7000rpm than you do at 3000rpm with 10psi, hence the scale is in load.

When using a MAP sensor pressure * temperature is used then scaled in a curve that looks very similar to the torque curve to give you a fairly linear load scale. MAF will always be more accurate as when using MAP you basically have to guess airflow.

Right, just a lil recap.....

Since this thread was started for recommendations for a piggy back ecu for the 1JZ, I thought i'd just keep it here one time....

I have a JDM 2Jzgte vvti auto in an Atisto and have been busting my balls trying to find a simple ecu just to tidy up the afrs and timing with the addition of a wmi kit (only 95 here) and boost up of a few psi. Its going to remain stock turbs, inj etc.

Was also looking for one that would have a boost cut control(clamp) and a speed cut control so I was leaning towards the emanage ultimate. I browsed through the supra fourms and have gotten lots of conflicting reports about the emu so just throwing it up here for advice.

My main concern is timing control and the issue of the stock ecu fighting the emu

So what do you guys think? And any other recommendations without busting the bank?

Piggy back is always a hack and a bad idea, do it once do it properly, just because people make them work doesn't make it a good idea. Get a full aftermarket ECU and piggy back it if needed for other functionality (eg auto etc), however never piggy back the fuel and ignition, it just makes them fight each other making tuning a nightmare.

Can you get a nistune equivalent for supra ECUs? If not adaptronic at ~$1k will be fantastic, tuning is always going to be the bulk of the cost with a full tune from scratch getting close to $1k, if you are just doing small mods a few hundred might be all thats needed to get it up and going.

Edited by Rolls
Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yea I know the gremlins associated with piggybacks but I just cant justify spending that kind of money on a standalone just for a little 'tidy up' of the maps.....Tuning however wouldn't be an issue because it will be done by myself.

Haven't seen anything similar to nistune for these engines either, and the majority of guys who do go standalone go for the fcon vpro wired together with the oem ecu to control the auto box, as I think it also does the vvti.....and I dont think I need to mention tuning for this! :yucky:

Problem is there is info floating around, most based on the USDM supra, but not the 98 vvti models which either way seem to have problems with the emu, and on the flip side, some say the JDM versions work ok with it .

And there is lots about the aristo with the 2jzgte also, but again the older models without the vvti

Seems like the vvti ecu is a lil sophisticated like the r34, and hence very limited aftermarket tuning options available

Edited by Don Dada
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...