Jump to content
SAU Community

Swap Rb25De With Rb25Det

brat81

By brat81,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted (edited)

there is so much to upgrade on an NA to make it turbo...

if you are going to do it PROPERLY...

you can do the dodgey thing, upgrade nothing slap a turbo on it etc... and end up with a confused car that doesnt perform anywhere near the effort put into it....

sell NA buy turbo car, save time and money, not one spanner needed... done

Edited by 75coupe
dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

Swap block out for a second hand good cond 33 gtst det block - your choice to rebuild here if you want. (u may even be able to reuse ur old block if its got oil squirters for the pistons. If so just whack in det piston and rods, new bearings and headgasket and ur set.)

You will need the complete det turbo and intake setup - turbo plus oil and water lines, exh manifold, dump n front pipes, intake pipe, air filter or airbox, fmic interooler kit, manaul bleed valve.

Whack in a 33 gtst ecu or go pfc (again your option depends on budget)

The difference in the de cams will give you abit of gains compared to det cams.

Since youve got 50% more power, ur gonna need tp address.brakes so gtst brake setup and 5 stud conversion os on the cards.

You will also need to put the power down so a gtst viscous lsd will be needed.

Unless ur car was purchased fpr dirt cheap like 4k then itll be worth it to do the above, otherwise just sell and get an.original gtst as they are cheap these days.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Judging by the post he made last, it looks like a transplant more than a conversion.

Still shit. You've got an NA registered R33 with a turbo motor. Technically, its a huge defect. You will also need to change the brakes all round as the non turbo uses smaller brakes, another $500 to source brakes.

brat81 Proficient

brat81

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Maybe i'll explain in a much more simpler english since know one seems to understand what i'm saying.

I will swap the RB25DE engine out and replace with a COMPLETE WITH TURBO,LOOM AND ECU RB25DET all i would need to get it going from the start would be intercooler and exhaust. would i not ?

Brakes will hold up, gearbox should hold up for now.

Will be installed by a mechanic so a eng cert will come along with it and car will be re-registered with vicroads with new engine number and whatever else

Make sense now ?

Now what complications will i come across ?

Edited by brat81
StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

Maybe i'll explain in a much more simpler english since know one seems to understand what i'm saying.

I will swap the RB25DE engine out and replace with a COMPLETE WITH TURBO,LOOM AND ECU RB25DET all i would need to get it going from the start would be intercooler and exhaust. would i not ?

Brakes will hold up, gearbox should hold up for now.

Will be installed by a mechanic so a eng cert will come along with it and car will be re-registered with vicroads with new engine number and whatever else

Make sense now ?

Now what complications will i come across ?

it wont be eng cert without turbo brakes

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Now what complications will i come across ?

Having done this myself...

Endless. Do as the others are advising and sell it.

Unless you have already upgraded the brakes/suspension/drivetrain etc, and you will be making more of a loss by selling the car and buying a factory turbo model then you really shouldn't be thinking about doing this.

cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted

For the price a 33 gtst goes for, you would be nuts. Unless you purely want the experience of pulling it apart and reassembling it, sell it.. I dont think a 33 gts would be worth much less then a 33 gtst (purely because the gtst is worth nothing) Sell.

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Brakes will hold up, gearbox should hold up for now.

Will be installed by a mechanic so a eng cert will come along with it and car will be re-registered with vicroads with new engine number and whatever else

Now what complications will i come across ?

no the brakes wont be fine...

no the diff wont be fine...

then you'll probably find the suspension will be sloppy so there's another upgrade needed...

so not worth it... buy a turbo model

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Whoops!
×
×
  • Create New...