Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am looking for an r32 gtst or gts4, so far with not much luck. I want to buy something that has been well looked after and not something that has been thrashed around and poorly maintained by someone who doesnt know much about them. If you have something or know of someone who has an R32 of this description i will be interested. I have cash also. Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384313-wanted-r32/
Share on other sites

Yeah you guys make good points. Its just so hard to find anything in tas! Not much about to choose from.

What do you guys think of this:

http://tas.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-r32-turbo-skyline-W0QQAdIdZ333930970

I'd appreciate your opinions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384313-wanted-r32/#findComment-6133378
Share on other sites

if you want to do skids, its a no deal, as its AWD. they are heavier, but if you want grip go for it.. ask someone in the know on here if they know it, or will look at it with you

I think the gts4's can also be RWD if you remove the 4WD fuse. Same as GTR's. Im not that desperate to "do skids" however it will be a nice option since ive been driving a gay FWD for a while lol. More just after a street car that will be reliable that i can build up myself. Be good if someone on here knew/knew of the current owner.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384313-wanted-r32/#findComment-6134110
Share on other sites

Yeah you can hook up a switch which bypasses the fuse to put it back to RWD, but you're still carrying a decent chunk more weight for the AWD system. That being said, if you have a few fat friends you may not even notice ;)

I don't know the owner but someone on here would, generally people only interested in burnouts will avoid the AWD versions so maybe you'll get lucky with the engine? As I'm sure you've heard, if you're building from stock and you want something remotely decent it will cost you heaps (HEAPS) more than buying something already built.

I almost bought a gts4 about 4 years ago, but pulled out as a once over from brad at boost automotive turned up a lot of issues. If you're up north I'd suggest a good check over before purchase, and take notice of your gearbox when you take a test drive as it's under a bit more stress in AWD's.

Also, last piece of obvious and most likely misguided advice, drive skylines you don't want before buying one you do. Come to one of our meet ups or whatever and people will give you a lift I'm sure. Driving some POS skyline would have blown my socks off after a couple of years in a FWD hatch, so make sure it's the real thing, not just a comparison with another type of car :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384313-wanted-r32/#findComment-6134980
Share on other sites

Yeah you can hook up a switch which bypasses the fuse to put it back to RWD, but you're still carrying a decent chunk more weight for the AWD system. That being said, if you have a few fat friends you may not even notice ;)

I don't know the owner but someone on here would, generally people only interested in burnouts will avoid the AWD versions so maybe you'll get lucky with the engine? As I'm sure you've heard, if you're building from stock and you want something remotely decent it will cost you heaps (HEAPS) more than buying something already built.

I almost bought a gts4 about 4 years ago, but pulled out as a once over from brad at boost automotive turned up a lot of issues. If you're up north I'd suggest a good check over before purchase, and take notice of your gearbox when you take a test drive as it's under a bit more stress in AWD's.

Also, last piece of obvious and most likely misguided advice, drive skylines you don't want before buying one you do. Come to one of our meet ups or whatever and people will give you a lift I'm sure. Driving some POS skyline would have blown my socks off after a couple of years in a FWD hatch, so make sure it's the real thing, not just a comparison with another type of car :P

Thanks mate! Appreciate the advice. I think i might leave that one and keep looking. I asked if i could take it for a professional inspection and he declined so thats not a good sign.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384313-wanted-r32/#findComment-6135641
Share on other sites

Yeah definitely get the inspection done, it will save u many, many $$$$ in the future. I got screwed over because i didnt do that when i bought my car due to the fact that the guy selling seemed like a genuine and honest person, big mistake on my part :spank: . Its almost all good now but i have had to spend a substantial amount more $$$ than i was hoping too and i havent even had the car that long. There are good cars out there just take the time to find one and u wont regret it, u will never go back to FWD :P Good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384313-wanted-r32/#findComment-6144649
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...