Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey forum just need an answer to a question about the stated topic. A friend of mine has a rush racing antilag device that he cannot get to work, it is a simple three wire hook up and a few simple button presses to install, only problem is for some reason it doesn't work with his rb25det series 2 engine. Wanted to know if it doesn't work because the engine is a series 2? The signal is suppose to be attached to wire 52 on the ecu, but on series two motors the wire harness has no wires attached to pin 52, so we are forced to use pin 42 with no luck. The instructions say to install the signal wire on pin 52 which is the crank angle sensor degree 1. We then have to install on pin 42 as that is the pinout that is crank angle sensor degree 1 for the series 2 engine but when we try to set the car drops rpm and dies with a loud backfire. Same thing happens when trying to install a bee r rev limiter. I know the antilag works for sure as we installed in a friends supra and it worked liked a charm, tried it in my series 2 as well and it also did not work. Can rush racing antilag systems work with the series two rb25det?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384692-antilagrevlimiter-rb25det-series-2/
Share on other sites

Got a link to the device, it's description? Got any instructions?

Backfire is a good sign if you're trying to set up antilag, it means the device is actually trying to retard CAS synced events, i.e. injection and ignition. Maybe it does a little too much retardation though. What are the other two wires, power supply? Is the device adjustable at all? Is there "idle" mode of any kind, when ALS just sits in there without adding any delay to CAS signal? Does engine work properly when the device is wired in but is not active?

Is your or your friend's ECU adjustable, like Nistune or something? Tried to do any logs? Maybe there isn't enough fuel for the engine to actually run, or maybe O2 closed loop routine is doing funny things, or a bunch of other reasons that could affect engine/ECU behaviour.

Oh, and I hope you're not trying to use antilag with the factory turbo.

So according to OP's post, it's intended to delay CAS 1-deg signal by a certain amount, based on current revs? I'm having hard time seeing it working as a rev limiter, let alone antilag.

BTW, retarding 1-deg signal won't do a thing, because on 1-degree ring there are 360 slots on CAS disc that have absolutely uniform intervals between them. What should probably be delayed is wide slot signal also known as sync signal, because there are 6 slots of different width, and this very signal is actually responsible for synced/sequential engine operation.

Yep, that's basically how soft limiters work - they pull some timing so that engine wont either gain or loose revs. That's the way some OEMs used to do it.

But they also trimmed fuelling accordingly in order to smooth out normal-to-limiter transitions, avoid backfiring and keep engine temperatures and emissions in check, which the above device is cetainly uncapable of doing.

I would love to try one along with an EGT gauge, hold it on the limiter and count the seconds before either a piston melts or the chamber melts, and the exhaust valves are soft and mushy, or a turbine wheel melts

Also having problems hooking up my Bee-r. Ran fine with my 20 but tried to wire it into the 25 loom and no luck.

Spent a couple of hours one day connecting it to different wires from different pinout diagrams with not much luck.

Managed to get the controller working fine with all the lights doing their usual thing but it just wouldn't cut the revs...

Could be a similar problem?

You must be wiring it wrong, get a pinout diagram before you go any further

It is only a three wire hook up and I checked the wiring over and over it was wired in correctly. Even tried it on the 180 degree ecu pinout instead of the 1 degree and the result was the same. Wire 52, power and ground thats it.

Also having problems hooking up my Bee-r. Ran fine with my 20 but tried to wire it into the 25 loom and no luck.

Spent a couple of hours one day connecting it to different wires from different pinout diagrams with not much luck.

Managed to get the controller working fine with all the lights doing their usual thing but it just wouldn't cut the revs...

Could be a similar problem?

Which rb25det do you have? I have the series two I have heard of people getting them to work, but everytime I ask which engine it seems to be the series 1. I do not know if that has anything to do with it. So was the bee-r we tried and the rush limiter.

Best bet if you wanna use anything like that the bee r limiter works on rb25s

Tried the bee-r as well same result. Have you installed a bee-r that worked on a rb25det series 2 engine?

Got a link to the device, it's description? Got any instructions?

Backfire is a good sign if you're trying to set up antilag, it means the device is actually trying to retard CAS synced events, i.e. injection and ignition. Maybe it does a little too much retardation though. What are the other two wires, power supply? Is the device adjustable at all? Is there "idle" mode of any kind, when ALS just sits in there without adding any delay to CAS signal? Does engine work properly when the device is wired in but is not active?

Is your or your friend's ECU adjustable, like Nistune or something? Tried to do any logs? Maybe there isn't enough fuel for the engine to actually run, or maybe O2 closed loop routine is doing funny things, or a bunch of other reasons that could affect engine/ECU behaviour.

Oh, and I hope you're not trying to use antilag with the factory turbo.

No it's an aftermarket turbo, give me a little bit more credit thatn that. Good looking out though

I've heard that running the engine super retarded on idle can infact spin a turbo like jet. (not sure if any one tired it). How ever once the car's driving the shaft speed drops back to normal.

Are u sure there is no pin on wire 52???

Z32 and rb25 both series have the same pinout and they all should have pin 52 as pin 2 on the CAS.

Ill check the colour of the wire in 10 when i walk past my drifter with series 2 25

It is only a three wire hook up and I checked the wiring over and over it was wired in correctly. Even tried it on the 180 degree ecu pinout instead of the 1 degree and the result was the same. Wire 52, power and ground thats it.

Which rb25det do you have? I have the series two I have heard of people getting them to work, but everytime I ask which engine it seems to be the series 1. I do not know if that has anything to do with it. So was the bee-r we tried and the rush limiter.

Hmm mine is the series 1 engine and the ecu has s2 auto written on it. The loom looks like its a bit custom aswell (got the lot as a kit). Keen to hear results :)

http://rushracingdev.com/al.html

It isnt anti-lag, its just a 2-step limiter

The description on that page you linked to is:

The Rush Racing Development Antilag Launch Control is the best way to get your car out of the hole in a hurry. Testing has shown boost pressures over 18 psi and so far, low 1.50 60 foots. This unit also works with manual transmissions as well as most automatics but results below 3500 rpm may vary. Setting the rpm is done with one simple press of the button and out performs other 2-steps. Installation is a snap with only three wires to hook up and no wires to cut. Be advised that this unit works more like the AEM antilag than the traditional 2-step, so flames from the exhaust are likely. WORLD WIDE SHIPPING AVAILABLE!.

So how is not antilag?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...