Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Joe you'll see now the kit is finished, heaps of GTR's will be getting them there. I know of one Melbourne workshop getting to play with one soon too - so it's not just Sydney siders who are lucky with this bit of gear.

From 290 to 400? Yeah, hold-the-fu(k-on, thats a big jump :D

Sorta disappointing in a way lol wouldn't have minded being one of only a few that had this kit

I spose it is like anything though.

This kit has been in the pipeline for a while now. I am not sure how long, but Yavuz mentioned it when I jumped across to E85 in Nov last year. It has been something like 3 years of Testing and tuning.

Sorta disappointing in a way lol wouldn't have minded being one of only a few that had this kit

Well if it's any comfort, not everyone will be able to afford it. There's always the "close enough is good enough" crowd.

Any reason still 2.6L and not going stroker?

I spose it is like anything though.

This kit has been in the pipeline for a while now. I am not sure how long, but Yavuz mentioned it when I jumped across to E85 in Nov last year. It has been something like 3 years of Testing and tuning.

The day I swapped to E85 it was the same time he said the design is starting. So yeah, quite a while!! Thats why I used the Autronic one because this kit was so far off.....as you know thats another story now...

Just to back this up - I put on the Ross Trigger kit a few weeks back also. Although mine it a 12 tooth setup - I am running Motec and logged exactly the same kind of improvement. Used to get up to 500rpm jitter above 5500rpm.. now its lucky if it jitters more than 30rpm.

We also noticed immediately a better/smoother idle. And that was the only change made.

For the CAS, we just replaced the trigger wheel for one that has 1 sync slot.

Obviously doing crank triggers is nothing new, but its nice to have an off the shelf kit made rather than having to fab something up yourself.

Yea I first heard about it about a year ago as well, but ur right I don't think many people will be spending the extra cash on some thing that isn't really necessary. Especially since its a modification for more "highly tuned" cars...

I ended up buyin an engine that had already been built and I was happy with the 2.6 at that point in time ( it was a good price as well)

Though when I do eventually kill the engine "will not if" I'll be using a 2.8 minimum

Seems to be the common trend at the moment

I can completely understand when "Gav" (a WA forum member with a very similar setup) said "I have a choice of 2 gear's in any corner on the track".

...depending on which corner he is talking about.. he could mean 1st and reverse... eh Gav. ;)

(and yes, I do hope he reads this..)

Any details?

90mm Sleeved block + 3.4 crank would be interesting

somebody with more money than me should do it...

Steve you know 3.0 isnt enough right :whistling:

Na couldn't get any more info on it.. Apparently it's got a fair bit more displacement then the 34 though

Not sure how much larger u could get it lol

Edited by GTR_JOEY

Yea I first heard about it about a year ago as well, but ur right I don't think many people will be spending the extra cash on some thing that isn't really necessary. Especially since its a modification for more "highly tuned" cars...

I ended up buyin an engine that had already been built and I was happy with the 2.6 at that point in time ( it was a good price as well)

Though when I do eventually kill the engine "will not if" I'll be using a 2.8 minimum

Seems to be the common trend at the moment

That's the thing. Isn't "really necessary". Timing, combined with fuel is prob the most important things on a highly tuned car. If there is no consistancy in either of those, you really are risking that big buck bottom end.

bonus that it's a one off purchase that wont need replacement

so worst comes to worst and u wreck an engine you can just throw it on the new engine and away u go

300rwkw plus is where the the CAS problems tend to start... And there's alot more 300kw+ cars starting to get around

...depending on which corner he is talking about.. he could mean 1st and reverse... eh Gav. ;)

(and yes, I do hope he reads this..)

Yer, yer, yer.......anyway to the OP - if you get to a stage where the coilpacks or sparkplugs are givving hiccups on E85 I can't say enough good things about the Billet Performance CDI kit. This really lets you get the best out of the E85 with regards to aggressive fueling and timing in the mid range.

Yer, yer, yer.......anyway to the OP - if you get to a stage where the coilpacks or sparkplugs are givving hiccups on E85 I can't say enough good things about the Billet Performance CDI kit. This really lets you get the best out of the E85 with regards to aggressive fueling and timing in the mid range.

PM me with details?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...