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post-87903-0-16591800-1323075306_thumb.jpgpost-87903-0-88104400-1323075295_thumb.jpgpost-87903-0-60164000-1323075278_thumb.jpgpost-87903-0-52727800-1323075287_thumb.jpgpost-87903-0-60164000-1323075278_thumb.jpgHi There all,

New to posting but have been here reading avidly since Sept.

Have bought myself a R33 Series 1, and loving it to bits!!

it was stock, and have since put in a Just Jap 3inch cat back exhaust, running beautiful, no problems.

Then about 3 weeks ago decided to install a Just Jap FMIC Kit.

I read loads of guides, then got all the original piping out etc, all no problems. This is when the issues started.

Have installed all the piping, using all but 1 of the stock silicon joiners supplied (on the hot side of the intercooler 3" to 2.5" reducer).

Idle is FINE, however as soon as it gets to boost, it just chokes, like its cutting out...

I thought this was a boost leak at first, but have removed ALL the piping twice, and checked with soapy water for any boost leaks, NOTHING. all clamps are exceptionally tight, and rock solid from what i and 2 friends can tell (fairly experienced with this kind of thing).

Have a look at the video, and you will see the issues im having.

i havent touched anything else, just this intake work, and this is the head ache i have no.

Was hoping that someone would have had this issue / can help diagnose, cause im running out of ideas.

here is a list of things i have done.

  • Changed all intake piping.
  • custom built a mount for the front pipe so that i didn't need to trim the fan blade and also help the front pipe sit flush
  • checked all pipes, tightened all clamps
  • Disconnected the battery for a number of days (to reset ECU??)
  • checked connection to AFM (just wiggled and sh!t but all looks ok)
  • have tried pulling the vacuum feed i have used for the actuator doesn't make any difference - (have heard that should use a line on the intake, and i will, once i have diagnosed this problem, im not convinced it is causing any issues)

Thats about it, please let me know if you have any suggestions ideas.

Have also included a few photos to perhaps help...?

Matt

Has the piping between the AFM and turbo been changed? Possible AFM reversion if so.

Try unplugging the AFM to see if it does the same (will go into limp home mode and be rev limited to 2500).

Are you sure a rag or something wasn't left in the piping or the intercooler?

Sounds like a massive leak to me the way its running, thats how it runs when youve blown a pipe out. If you want to do a proper leak test get a pcv end pipe and cut a hole and glue a compressor fitting onto it then take the afm off and stick that on and run compressed air through 15psi or whatever you want and listen for leaks, cant think of any other reason it would run like that since all youve done is put a cooler so all I can see it being is a leak somewhere or some hoses you forgot to plug in.

Has the piping between the AFM and turbo been changed? Possible AFM reversion if so.

Try unplugging the AFM to see if it does the same (will go into limp home mode and be rev limited to 2500).

Are you sure a rag or something wasn't left in the piping or the intercooler?

Thanks for the comment.

Certainly no rags in the piping. been really careful everytime i take it out.

I havent touched any piping from the AFM back, just the intercooler piping.

one of those photos shows the AFM and the first part of the piping, looks stock to me.

funnily enough it might even be something to do with the AFM, its doesnt like going much about 2500..

would it be making those sounds now if it was in limp home mode?

from memory i have disconnected the airflow meter and it doesnt too anything to help or change the symptoms in the vid.

You're not going to be able to build any positive pressure at all in neutral anyway. If it's being rev limited @ 2500rpm then in all likelyhood the car is in limp home mode and I would be getting the error code from ECU, will confirm if it's the AFM or not, and if It is the AFM it could be something as simple as the solder joints in the AFM need to be resoldered.

Unless you man handled your AFM, it should be fine. They are fragile, yes, but cmon people run 20psi through these things with big turbos... That is alot of suction. Some people put them in the cooler pipe, that is alot of pressure on the components. Surely dropping it, disconnecting it or what not won't kill it. None the less it is a component which you need to confirm it either works or doesn't.

I thought most, if not all, skylines have the limp home mode if the AFM is f**ked.

How did you hook up the wastegate actuator? To control boost...

Hi, ive teed it off the BOV for now.

know its not good practice, but im convinced that isnt what is causing these issues... surely that would just mean i would be over boosting, which isnt what is happening here?

By the sounds of it i might have problems with the AFM ? ill try running the codes from a thread i found..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/

reckon thats the best way forward? before jumping at buying a new AFM?

Cheers all for your help appreciate it.

Matt

Has the piping between the AFM and turbo been changed? Possible AFM reversion if so.

Try unplugging the AFM to see if it does the same (will go into limp home mode and be rev limited to 2500).

Are you sure a rag or something wasn't left in the piping or the intercooler?

Possible curse on his car by a magic gypsy also?

Please think before you type. He didn't say it was splutering/dying after changing gear or lifting off but just on boost.

that sounds exactly like when the AFM is not connected or a faulty AFM, could be bad luck and you might have bumped the AFM and it died, best to go borrow one from the forum members

Are you sure the series 1 ecu has limp home mode??

Yeah, i have an s1 and it goes into limp with the afm disconnected (forgot to reconnect once)

ok great. I'll check it tonight hopefully.

Our of interest does it jump straight out of that mode once It was plugged back in?

Or did you need to reset the ecu?

Cheers for the help all

So thought I would post a quick update

Ran the codes tonight and came up with AFM code

Then got my multi meter and checked the voltage on the plug.... nothing.

So restripped and housed the plug.?? Perfect.

It must have broken or come loose when I took the airbox out..

Thanks so much for all your help guys.. was awesome to narrow the issue down

Thanks again

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