Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends on the car and what I'm doing with it.

Not long ago I did a strip and refit in a DB9rs.

Cost the owner a fortune

trents R33 GTR I did the while car build and included the interior.

At the moment have cars from dash sport & insight which are totally stripped bare

General rule if all I'm doing is a cage then no stripping is included. If I'm building a whole car then I work it into the cost.

I have a no shit box policy now days. (seriously)

I've had to become very picky with the cages that I take on.

As of lock up time tonight there is 7 high end cars waiting in line for rather large cages.

And an additional 5 cars waiting for a phone call to bring them in.

That basically puts cage work at a 2month wait time.

I do suspension setups yes depending what the intended purpose is.

As for undercar bracing I dont really do anything regularly with it as the majority of the car I see through the place are getting or have cages.

I can design and fabricate undercar bracing if you are willing to factor in design time as well as actual fabrication time.

Best to get in contact when your ready and see if my shedule fits around yours.

Im currently doing a comprehensive cage for Dash sport

Its an EVO IX RS

I was contemplating doing a write up on the next cage similar to the one I did years ago about cage fabrication. It seems every forum but this one has a thread dedicated to roll cages.

post-20349-0-81466000-1334654539_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-25525500-1334654611_thumb.jpg

I do suspension setups yes depending what the intended purpose is.

As for undercar bracing I dont really do anything regularly with it as the majority of the car I see through the place are getting or have cages.

I can design and fabricate undercar bracing if you are willing to factor in design time as well as actual fabrication time.

Best to get in contact when your ready and see if my shedule fits around yours.

will do champ............im doing a big build and bracing i will spend $$$$ on no issuse...........cause pretty much its a land barge

Im currently doing a comprehensive cage for Dash sport

Its an EVO IX RS

I was contemplating doing a write up on the next cage similar to the one I did years ago about cage fabrication. It seems every forum but this one has a thread dedicated to roll cages.

Brad can you get back to me? Still waiting on a reply..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...