Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Profiles in which type of fab work?

The cages or the merge collectors for the exhaust system.

The exhaust stuff is a lot of work, the first of the merge collector is honestly a lot of educated guessing and measuring.

Once you've got the first collector close a cardboard template that can be wrapped around the tube is used to replicate it.

Im actually running some basic fabrication tutorial days in the coming months for various clubs

I meant scalloping the cages etc, I'm thinking about doing my own manifold and half cage weighing up whether to do it by hand or pay and get the tubes profiled at work. (I ain't no master fabricator :P)

The actual knotching is the easy part, I use a speed werx tube knotcher that uses holesaws

It's calculating the knotch which is the difficult part.

Basically

String line the bar you want to do

Cut the length longer than the inside measurement

Measure the angle your spring line makes with the bar you want to connect it to. I use a sliding bevel for this

You will need to also mark the center line of the tube you want to knotch.

Transfer the angle into the knotcher and make the cut

To do the other end you need to sit the tube in the cage, mark the total length where you want the knotch to begin and repeat the process.

You can't just profile cut the ends and hope they are right. Each tube needs to be calculated and done to suit its location. As much as you'd like to think its symmetrical its never perfect.

You would still need to work out angles, centrelines, distance etc then get each bar profiled as you go so it would take along time.

Can't laser cut them untill each bar has been orientated in the car to find the center line (knotch center lines are usually slightly different at each end too) then you still need to string it up to find the angle and length.

I know people who have tried getting them laser cut but they end up scrapping a lot of material and buying a knotcher.

There is 18 junctions in a basic 6 point cage. Getting all of those measured to have tube laser cut in one go is impossible as one bar often effects the next.

There are companies overseas which supply cage kits pre cut and knotched but everyone I've seen being fitted has required work on the joints to make it right still.

The actual knotching is the easy part, I use a speed werx tube knotcher that uses holesaws

It's calculating the knotch which is the difficult part.

Basically

String line the bar you want to do

Cut the length longer than the inside measurement

Measure the angle your spring line makes with the bar you want to connect it to. I use a sliding bevel for this

You will need to also mark the center line of the tube you want to knotch.

Transfer the angle into the knotcher and make the cut

To do the other end you need to sit the tube in the cage, mark the total length where you want the knotch to begin and repeat the process.

You can't just profile cut the ends and hope they are right. Each tube needs to be calculated and done to suit its location. As much as you'd like to think its symmetrical its never perfect.

You would still need to work out angles, centrelines, distance etc then get each bar profiled as you go so it would take along time.

What Brad really means here, is save yourself a LOT of head ache and work, and pay someone to built the whole cage.

I've watched Brad do it before, and I'm all for giving stuff a go myself... But bugger that idea!

As for manifolds, I'm going to be building some for myself soon too, I've watched a manifold builder work, and it's worth a crack yourself if you're handy with some metal work gear. As for doing manifold building as a job... Yeah... No thanks! LOL

Sent you a PM last week regarding this. My wheels are on their way and would like to see what options i have :yes:

Been done before and have the CAD drawings to prove it :)

There is two ways to do the conversion one is rather expensive but far superior the other is cheaper, works fine but isn't doing anything for the suspension geometry.

i know this is an old post, but any chance that you still have it on the shelf?

thanks

Not a problem I'll cancel the invoice.

If anyone wants an R33 undercar surge tank setup for twin 044's I've got one fabbed and ready to pressure test/ post off.

$330 inc gst plus postage charges.

Awesome!

My wheels are currently in Perth clearing customs.

So wont be long until they arrive on my doorstep and ill need a bit of help getting them to fit the right way ;)

Yes I do have one VT and a VX.

Do you want to know the actual angle it's set on?

I have a set of the harrop billet mounts that were used on a lot of the cars at that time if you need mounts for it too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...