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neck snap is only bad when when putting power on around a corner, it changes turning to drifting not good for track times or tyre longevity...

But you can modify this with the tune right, like retard the timing a little for a split second when going to WOT?

That is how I understand it. Slow spool up might help with traction - unless you play with the tune - but you lose low end boost/torque?

I'm really wanting a responsive car still but with a bit more power basically. I love having full torque/boost at 2800k on the stock turbo at 0.85 bar and it holds that torque almost to redline just drops off a tad. Re-worked stock turbo is cheap but was told would not get full torque/boost until 3800k (~1.2 bar I guess). I was hoping I could do better than lose a grand?

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2835 isnt slow spool up its gradual, full boost 3200-3400.. some turbos will just hit suddenly with power at 3800-4000 and its hard to use the power controllably.

I dont know anything about tuning for the boost comeon so cant comment...

2835 isnt slow spool up its gradual, full boost 3200-3400.. some turbos will just hit suddenly with power at 3800-4000 and its hard to use the power controllably.

I dont know anything about tuning for the boost comeon so cant comment...

Thanks mate. How would the 3076 perform in comparison on 1 - 1.2 bar boost levels...the sort of application here on a stock motor?

Apparently the 76 with the .82 rear does come on more gradually but I think your still not gonna have full boost till around the 36-3800 mark again???

Maybe one of the boys that has one could clarify, I am only guessing really.

So what tires are you guys running?

I use Khumo KU36's on the street and on the track I use Bridgestone Potenza RE55S'. Street tyres are stretched 225 front and back on 8.5" front and 9.5" rear. Track tyres are 235 front and 245 rear.

Lets all just buy kando's :D

Sarge our dyno doesnt read low it just reads accurate :)

When we tune ur car maybe we can prove all these haters wrong.

Oh another thing, lets all meet up at the drags so we can seperate the men from the boys.

^^^WHS

Also keen for the drags, you guys know your way to Perth :nyaanyaa:

I really think a lot of people on here need better tyres... I'm making 390rwhp and I don't spin at all unless I stab the clutch. Otherwise it's all grip. Even with 350rwhp, I was gripping while punching it hard through corners.

320rwhp :whistling:

320rwhp :whistling:

Possibly... But that second dyno run ended at 5600rpm. And if you overlay the graphs and add 6% on for the correction method then they are pretty much exactly the same up to that point. So I guess I have about 370rwhp if you take off the 6%.

Farkin dynos. I needa hit the strip and get some trap speeds. Did I hear someone say you were all coming to Perth? :P

Edited by Hanaldo

SS-2

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6079489

G3 FNT:

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5908912

On the same time I don't see another 2835 matching listed either.

The SS and FNT turbos are too new, not many been built. and most of them are not running at their full potentials. So give it abit more time, more results that are equivalent to control will shown.

Fair enough.

But as far as the new ATR43G3 FNT's go, they dont seem to "bolt on" as simply as you imply? Martin had to do a bit of mucking around just to get the thing to fit because the comp housing is quite large, requiring a spacer. Not to mention the $500 he spent on other little bits and pieces to get it all hooked up properly (could you list these things that are needed?). THEN the damn issue with the dump pipe melting the a/c pipe... Having to move the whole exhaust over a tad, etc etc etc.

Dont get me wrong im still keen to buy one of your turbo's, but i just want to know what my tuner and I are in for when the time comes, maybe some time and money can be saved. :)

You could do it for a lot cheaper man. My main expenses were my breather hoses which were $260. Few other bits and pieces that added up but you could do for cheaper.

I needed:

Spacer plate.

Extended high tensile manifold studs and nuts.

High tensile bolts for the turbo.

Oil control hose for breathers.

Oil control hose for return oil line.

Modifications to intake pipe.

Relocate radiator overflow bottle.

Modifications to hot cooler pipe.

4"-3" reducer.

2.5" 90 degree bend.

Hose clamps.

That's all I can remember :P

Edited by Hanaldo

Possibly... But that second dyno run ended at 5600rpm. And if you overlay the graphs and add 6% on for the correction method then they are pretty much exactly the same up to that point. So I guess I have about 370rwhp if you take off the 6%.

Farkin dynos. I needa hit the strip and get some trap speeds. Did I hear someone say you were all coming to Perth? :P

I think you will find that the dyno dynamics run is a full run... the power curve has turned over, its more likely that the dyno just wasn't calibrated properly between speed and rpm cause they were in a rush on the day.

Also 6% for correction but add another 7% that the dyno reads higher than rollers. My guess would have been 340rwhp on a roller... 320 isn't that far off!

Mph... i think you would struggle for much over 113mph

Install the G3 you needed:

Spacer plate. <- supplied with turbo

Extended high tensile manifold studs and nuts. <- buy from bolts and nuts places

2.5" 90 degree bend.

Hose clamps.

Rest is about what needs to be done running a 4inch intake pipe and that is just require for any high powered applications.

AC rubber drain pipe. Stock dump pipe is in 45 degrees slop, that won't foul. Aftermarket dumps are made from 2x 90 degrees bents sticking out in random directions, some fouls and some misses. zip tie the rubber pipe aside to the bracket for the ones fouls.

Relation to turbo designs there are 2x types of customers, one's just wants street fun and the others are targeting respective lap times.

Turbo for street fun needs to reach as much power and torque as possible with shortest RPM range as possible. This gives this Zappy feel on road. Good fun to drive.

Turbo for fast lap time would require lots of power with very wide torque band, compare the differences in dyno reading from the SS1PU vs SS3, G3. I personally prefer the G3.

I don't know what you guys dynos are like in WA, Status dyno here is within 2kws to many local dynodynamic rollers, they should be all similar on the latest software.

I think you will find that the dyno dynamics run is a full run... the power curve has turned over, its more likely that the dyno just wasn't calibrated properly between speed and rpm cause they were in a rush on the day.

Also 6% for correction but add another 7% that the dyno reads higher than rollers. My guess would have been 340rwhp on a roller... 320 isn't that far off!

Mph... i think you would struggle for much over 113mph

Fair enough. I was making 350rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics dyno with the previous turbo, and the car definitely feels faster now. But my ass dyno may be out :P

Will find out when I get down to the next whoop ass :)

Turbo for street fun needs to reach as much power and torque as possible with shortest RPM range as possible. This gives this Zappy feel on road. Good fun to drive.

So on an RB25 what RPM target would you have in mind for a turbo for street fun hitting full boost?

So on an RB25 what RPM target would you have in mind for a turbo for street fun hitting full boost?

250rwkws+

20psi < 3500RPMs

200rwkws < 4000RPMs

Based on a 12sec dyno ramp timing, 98 fuel.

What was this thread about again? :ph34r: . i'm with dvs-jez and simonr32 , for bang for buck , i can't find better than the kando option for $$ vs spool time vs outright power (with the td06 or t67 copies)(and most of my research has been on the net). not that i'm ragging on any other turbo

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