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Ok so just had my mate drive my car for a while and my rare and irregular missing has now become a full blown problem. I have just taped my OEM coilpacks a couple weeks ago with high quality silicon tape (this is the first drive after that- the coilpack boots looked nice n new, not a single hairline crack/ blemish) and i run 0.8mm gapped NGK coppers. See my signature below for mods, running tuned on Nistune.

Now the popping and farting has really reared its fugly head today, from even 3000rpms when BOOTING RAPIDLY, it definitely pop pop pops, farts and loses power, sometimes it happens from 4000rpms, goes all the way to 5500-6000rpms - didnt take it past. BUT it dosent miss/ pop at all when pressing accelerator GENTLY N SO GRADUALLY all the way to 5-6000rpms, it accelerates boosts and holds boost smoothly all the way. But as soon as u kick or stamp on the pedal it starts its act from 3 to 4000rpms n up.

So what could be the issue?? Coilpacks?? I only just taped them- miss was there before- do the couls inside get stuffed??

Why does it pop, fart n lose power when booting/ stamping rapidly on gas but dosent miss n accelerates cleanly all the way to redline when gradually n smoothly pressing pedal?? This much I can confirm. Do I really need coilpacks - heard good n bad about Yellowjackets, but only good about Splitfires but they expensive..

Why does it pop, fart n lose power when booting/ stamping rapidly on gas but dosent miss n accelerates cleanly all the way to redline when gradually n smoothly pressing pedal?? This much I can confirm. Do I really need coilpacks - heard good n bad about Yellowjackets, but only good about Splitfires but they expensive..

Sounds like coils are half-dead, mine did almost the same thing - wouldn't rev past 5k rpm. Sonded like V10 though. If you have a friend with known good ones, try to borrow a couple and swap them one or two at a time to find out if it's coils or not and exactly what coil is dead.

Your taping may have worsen temperature conditions the coils have to work in, causing heat buildup inside.

It behaves differently in different acceleration modes because resistance of spark gap between plug electordes increases with engine load.

Chances are u need new coilpacks. The taping idea u had is good BUT only when the rubber boots are arching and causing the issue.

See if u can find someone with some spare coils or borrow them from someones car to test.

coilpacks

from what ive seen on hear the coilpack failure rate in ER34 is higher than ECR33

in ER34 it's usually accompanied by engine check light being on

but anyhoo its definetly spark related and your ER34 is a bit old, replace coilpacks with a new set (splitfires, do it once, do it properly)

they fail in ECR33 also

symptom on ECR33 with dead coilpacks is

runs fine, drives fine, idles fine.

on boost / heavy load = misfire / detonation city

While we're at it - if there's a choice between splitfires and new stock coils, what should one choose? Is there anything to be said for splitfires being better than factory coils, i.e. stronger spark or something like that?

Also I thought it'd be a good idea to add nissan part numbers for factory coils.

Application: R34 RB25DE and RB25DET

Coil without rubber boot 22433-AA100 or -AA101

Coil with rubber boot 22448-AA100 or -AA101

Rubber boot alone, just in case :) Never seen them torn myself 22465-59S00

So are the Nissan coils more expensive than Splitfires? Who sells the cheapest Splitfires btw or shud i just try the YJs as they have warranty if faulted.. They the cheapest from what I know

100% Splitfires over OEM, cheaper and better.

Very very common GTT issue - was the only thing mechanically that went wrong with my GTT, changed to splitfires, problem solved.

Although, i think they sound more like a WRX when the coilpakcs fail :D

Error code is 21 i think if the engine check light comes one. Does the engine checklight and TCS light come on at the same time?

Problem is generally through that mid-range there as well

No I didnt have any engine check light on, and you could say it sounds a bit like a WRX, more like a loud farting, pop pop popping/droning and brrrrrrring, quite like a loud wind blast blowing in thru the windows when travelling at high speed..and drives like a corolla on that rpm band.

But when you dont stab the pedal and instead gradually push it to redline, theres no misfire and it accelerates cleanly to redline, have been reading threads on YJs and Splitfires and obviously the Splitfires are a better products, but the YJs are cheaper and apart from a few returns of dud items, most seem to have held well and PW seem to be a top bloke with warranties and stuff. So still scratching my head..>_<

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