Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys.

Im after a bit of help in sourcing some 60mm (approx.) studs and nuts for my turbo manifold.

Basically have been told that the standard studs for the turbo flange are not long enough as my 35/40 has a spacer plate for clearance off engine and the nuts on it currently cant get a full lock.

Any ideas where I may be able to source some high tensile and also heat resistant studs from to suit the T3 flange.

Any help much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385388-exhaust-manifold-turbo-studs/
Share on other sites

Im doing a similar thing, but fitting a gtx3076 and i got some studs from a local nuts and bolts shop, heaps around

Have you checked if your manifold is warped? cause mine is and will have to be machined, thought i should mention it in case you put yours on and its leaking.

Thanks for replies.

What is MTQ?

Also im kinda chasing specific shop names or "nuts and bolts" places who do the special studs to cope with the heat etc.

It seems lazy and well I guess it kind of is :) Dont play with cars much anymore just drive them

going through the same thing as we speak,

Just spoke to a guy, Brad from Atomic performance 02 86655889 they have what you need...

MTQ don't have anything special, just standard bolts with a squash locking nut.. if its a pretty standard setup and doesn't see lots of heat should be ok tho.. otherwise try Atomic

The ones I got from MTQ are high tensile, highly heat resistant.

high tensile has nothing to do with heat resistance.

but like I said, if its not a track car and doesn't see prolonged crazy high temps they will be fine..:thumbsup:

Edited by tricstar

high tensile has nothing to do with heat resistance.

but like I said, if its not a track car and doesn't see prolonged crazy high temps they will be fine..:thumbsup:

+1

If you are changing them, you'd probably go the inconel ones regardless.

They are a bit more expensive but they will last the distance. It's not something you wanna do twice that's for sure

+1

If you are changing them, you'd probably go the inconel ones regardless.

They are a bit more expensive but they will last the distance. It's not something you wanna do twice that's for sure

I've just spent half an hour on google, with no joy, any idea where to get inconel bolts in australia ??

Thanks heaps for the info guys just wondering if anyone has got the studs of approx 60mm length?

Im just going off what I hae been told does this seem correct length im assuming factory is 40mm so makes sense.

Im looking for inconel bolts and lock nuts for my own 3071 spacer set up,iirc the studs need to be about 50 - 60 mm and the thread pitch is m10 x 1.5 I cannot seem to locate the studs anywhere, pm me if you know where I can source the studs as im tired of tightening the existing arp studs about once every few months

thanks in advance

Edited by aerofocker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...