Jump to content
SAU Community

Blitz Dual Sbc Spec S Issues

GTSPWR

By GTSPWR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSPWR Apprentice

GTSPWR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi, I have just installed the above boost controller.

It workes fine in 'OFF' mode (Standard boost) and i can get throught the whole rev range of the car but as soon as i choose a aftermarket setting and hit anything above atmospheric pressure, the car coughs, the hicas light flashes and it feels like it dies. Switch it back to 'OFF' and it boosts no problem.

The boost is set using a range of 0 - 100. when i set it to 0. I can boost with no problems (as 0 is standard) but once you go up a touch, like to say 5, it doesnt like it.

(For the pressure signal to the controller, I tapped into the line that goes from the fuel press reg to the manifold.)

Any suggestions?

Edited by GTSPWR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385470-blitz-dual-sbc-spec-s-issues/
Share on other sites
GTSPWR Apprentice

GTSPWR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My thoughts exactly. either wa iy i tried it 't'd where the standard gauge is connected to the manifold, and i get the same result. still dont understand why it wont boost past standard. additionally when i boost in off mode the standard gauge shows 6ish psi but the ebc shows .72 which would be closer to 10 psi???

badhairdave Proficient

badhairdave

Posted
Posted

where are you getting your power and earth from? I ask because hicas gives no shit about about a lot of things, boost pressure being one of them. However, if you're spliced into an earth trigger with a solenoid stuttering away giving an odd ball signal to the ecu......

Have you completely removed the factory boost control and blocked off any loose hoses?

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

The line between the FPR and the manifold is fine to use but the reason you DO NOT use it is because if that line pops off, or somehow you develop a leak to your boost sensor or something goes wrong with the boost sensor, you will loose pressure on your fuel rail and the engine will run lean and detonate.

There are many places. The best place is between the actuator and the hot pipe. From the manifold, you have the delay of pressure from the turbo to the throttle to the manifold. Between the actuator and the hotpipe is best because this is the pressure closest to the turbo so your boost controller can read the boost and control it as necessary. It might practically do jack shit but in my mind it feels like the closest point so to help prevent boost spike, get the source close and respond quick.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Spends alot of money on boost controller. Spend $0 on engine management. You may need to rethink priorities. Anything above 10psi the stock ECU will just go into R&R "Rich and Retard"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...