Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a big problem.

I am putting a new turbo kit on my RB25.

I have taken off the exhaust manifold to find 3 of the studs have snapped.

2 of them I was able to use a tool with a reverse thread and they pulled out.

The last snapped the tool in the head. I then drilled that out (Took about 3 hours). But now I still can't get the stud out and I'm wrecking the thread.

Can anyone pls give me some advice. It has been suggsted that I get a blow torch and heat it up and try again? But can you heat up alloy safely?

Any input would be appreciated!

Cheers

dont use a blow torch if the head is still on the block. you have to dril it out to a bigger thread then helicoil only option if you have hacket up the thead

Edited by Bsa

Don't start putting heat around an allow head, it's not that great for it.

Call up a professional mobile stud removal guy. They'll have it out quick and easy, and for a relatively cheap price too.

dont use a blow torch if the head is still on the block. you have to dril it out to a bigger thread then helicoil only option if you have hacket up the thead

+1

thats what i did with mine, had to use a larger helicoil when the first one didnt work, use a center punch so you drill in the middle otherwise it will be harder, lucky my bolts were not too tight,

good luck

Don't start putting heat around an allow head, it's not that great for it.

Call up a professional mobile stud removal guy. They'll have it out quick and easy, and for a relatively cheap price too.

Excellent. Will do tmw. I hope there is someone in Canberra that can do it. Any reccomendations?

are you talking about easy outs? are you drilling the holes straight? so many people drill it crooked and make more problems then they started with

Yes easy outs. It was one of the studs that are hard to get to so probably wasn't straight. But the others came out easily so this one is just being a prick.

Thanks for pointing out about the heat and alloy.

Thanks.

+1 to mafia's idea, i did the same thing to my exh studs before too. I remove studs at work all the time, usually weld to the broken stud, basically anyway. Or there is a stud remover which slowly arcs the stud away but takes ages.

Do not try welding to them unless you know what your doing. Expect to pay 50-100 bucks depending on how stuck it is plus travel...

Most common reason i see for easyout failure is the hole getting drilled off centre and out into thread, ending in nothing happening. I hate easyouts.

And Id get yourself some arp studs, reason they break is one end is manifold temp- several hundred degrees and other end is head temp- a hundred or 2... Metal doesnt like this.

arp ones are a ground stud with less imperfections

I've looked up Capital thread repair and will give him a call in the morn.

Hopefully he is not on holidays yet or I'm screwed.....

Ofcourse the car was meant to be going in for the tune tmw.... Ahh cars. Don't you just love em.

Most states etc have a mobile "thread doctor" or similar. They have all the tools to do it easily and they are pretty cheap too. Easier to just let them do it.

Also change ALL the studs mate, not just the 3 that have broken. Otherwise you'll find more will crack in the next few months and you'll have to do it all again. You didn't make mention so I'm assuming you are only trying to fix the broken ones. :)

^ as above . . . ive used an easy out before then the bastard broke off in the last stud in the head , there was no way i was able to drill it out , get a profesional to do the job for you

Easy outs are shit.. I had a similar situation..

I ended up gettin a torque spit that was a bot larger then the hole... Put an extension on it and drove it into the stud with a hammer.

Then just put a ratchet on it and it came out. Pretty much the easiest way to remove broke studs and it's the only way I use now

Ok. The thread guy came today and fixed it. What a relief , I was preparing myself for a head off job.

He replaced a further 5 that broke after my 3 totalling 8 studs!!!!!

So I have 12 new studs and am $264 lighter.

It was worth it though as a tow or gasket kit would have been that alone.

Win from a fail.

Anyway thanks for the tips team.

I know you fixed it but wouldn't heat be the wrong approach? I would have thought using that Locfreeze stuff would be a better choice. When you heat metal, it expands. When you cool metal, it shrinks. This stuff acts like a lubricant to help loosen stuck stiff shit and also helps with inhibiting the new stud getting stuck the next time around. Did the guy removed them for you apply anything to the new studs?

Don't start putting heat around an allow head, it's not that great for it.

Call up a professional mobile stud removal guy. They'll have it out quick and easy, and for a relatively cheap price too.

+1 to this. don't bother buying ezyouts ect most likely to snap them in the drilled out stud or end up paying double (cost of ezyout set is same a pro to get them out)

Also Ezyouts is the worst thing to use on exhaust studs as the stud actually flattens the thread when installed and as you try and remove with a ezyout it actually trys and expands the stud to grip and gets stuck and usually snaps. I know cause i did it on one of them pinch.gif.

If your Anywhere from Gold-coast to Sunshine coast lookup ProThreads.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...