Jump to content
SAU Community

2012 Classic Japanese Show And Shine - Location


Recommended Posts

Below is an e-mail received from Ray, alot of others would have gotten it as well, but for those that didn't:

I've been at the event at lakeside for 2010 and 2011, both were excellent days.

So not sure what others think about the relocation.

THIS IS FOR YOUR ATTENTION

Relating to the 2012 JAPANESE NATIONALS ( CJSS)

With the re-sounding success of the 2011 Japanese Nationals held at Lakeside

2012 Japanese Nationals may be re-located

The decision to hold the 2012 Japanese Nationals has been decided to be held at IPSWICH.

This is not my doing

The CEO of Queensland Raceways emailed me with the following statement

Quote “As has been discussed we wanted more competitive activities, and to make a 2 day event, hence we have decided to move the event to Ipswich where safety margins are much higher for track activities” un quote

I was not present at this meeting.

The previous 2 years were combined joint venture, now we have been invited to a show and shine display.

This is not my feelings, so I am putting it to you, the entrants and friends, to vote on where you would like 2012 Japanese Nationals

I have listed a voting poll on the front home page of www.classicjapaneseshowandshine.com

1/ we stay at Lakeside

2/ we move to Ipswich

3/ we go back to Bald Hills for static display

4/ we find another location

Please tick the appropriate box and hit “vote” that is all that is required. Anytime it can be done

I have a meeting with Keith Lewis, and John Tetley Tuesday 31st January 2012

I would appreciate your help and assistance in confirming where and what we do for 2012 before the 29th January

Personally unless the event is as was presented in 2011, then we need to relocate.

The drags wont be part of it at Ipswich

If you have anything to add, please email me. I don’t wish to see the Japanese Nationals turn into a TIME ATTACK event as is now suggested. It is getting away from the original meaning of Classic Japanese Show and Shine

Regards RAY FERGUSON Co-ordinator for Japanese Nationals

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...